Advice pls for shower pump output pipe run(s) - MANY THANKS!

[gothicsanta]

I've got a conventional hws, unpressurised system - hot & cold header tanks and cylinder h/w tank.

I recently fitted a Techflow TP75 2bar Twin shower pump and expected it to just work in-line a couple of rooms away

The hot water was in/out and the pump was clearly struggling, now it is just making a racket and no hw is coming through (except a trickle), so I think I've probably buggered it up

I've now read all the necessary information (better late than never :sigh and realise that my tank isn't even equipped to deal with a shower pump.

So I've just ordered the Salamander S Flange and I'll fit this to the top of my hot water cylinder.

I'm going to place my pump (or new pump!) close to and at the bottom of the cylinder within the airing cupboard, taking the 22mm flange exit pipe down to 15mm to the pump.

So I'm confident that takes care of the input side.

However, there is no roof space above the airing cupboard (flat roof) so I need to run my output pipes along the floor across 2 rooms (total run will be about 10 metres) to get to the shower & bath taps.

So my question is with a 10 metre flat run and then an elbow and 1.5 metres say, up the wall to the shower .. will this work?

I'm also thinking of putting t-pieces in to supply the taps on the bath and 2 sinks as they are all the new pressurised style so the hots run at a trickle at present

Will my pump cope with this?

Last question, although it's a twin propeller pump can I just run one side ie. hot water? The reason being that everything is installed, floorboards down, tiled etc. and the less pipework I have to run means the less damage I need to do.

As you can probably guess I've never done this before! So all advice is VERY welcome! and VERY MUCH appreciated

 

[HERTS P&D]

You need a negative head pump, not cheap though.

Below is the pump you need.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/monsoon-universal-shower-pump-with-twin-impeller-negative-2bar/95061

Andy

 

[gothicsanta]

Ouch :O Too expensive for me

Is there any other way? What would I need to change pipe wise?

 

[HERTS P&D]

You will need a negative head pump, the one that I listed is the best.

Andy

 

[gothicsanta]

I've read up and understand why now....

So can I get a single impeller one just for the hot as the cold feed is strong without the pump?

There is a "SALAMANDER-ESP80CPV-2-4BAR-SINGLE-IMPELLER-POSITIVE-NEGATIVE-INTELLIGENT-PUMP"

As this is just under £200.

Can these negative pumps go anywhere or am I still going to have to install the S-Flange in the hot water cylinder, pump in airing cupboard and run new pipework everywhere?

If so can I run the pipe through 3 T-pieces, to supply the hot to 2 sinks and the bath as well as the shower or will this cause problems (the shower head is the furthest point away from the cylinder).

Sorry for all the questions, just want to make sure that I get it right (this time!)

 

[HERTS P&D]

Are all the cold water taps run from the mains?

Andy

 

[gothicsanta]

Yep

 

[HERTS P&D]

The shower pump will need a S-flange and the pump next to the cylinder.

You will also need to match the pressure on the cold.

Andy

 

[gothicsanta]

Ok, thanks, not the best news in terms of cost but at least it will work!

 

[gothicsanta]

Just been reading up on these negative pumps and there is a single impellor type that says it will do the whole house (2.4bar).

So couldn't I simply cut the pipe coming out of the top of the hot water tank and run the pipe from the tank to the input on the pump and the cut pipe to the pump output ... then EVERY hot tap, hot feed-shower in the house would get great pressure? (With pump installed next to hot water tank)

This would be great, but maybe it can't be done?

 

[gothicsanta]

further to ^^ ... I've answered my own question and realised that this will be prone to air, so I have ordered a Salamander S Type fitting for the top of my h/w cylinder.

I am wondering though .. if I cut the existing h/w pipe as mentioned above and put a stop-end on the one out of the tank, used the Salamander side port to connect to the input side of the pump and then connected the pump output to the existing cut pipe this would supply pumped hot water to everywhere......which would be great

Is there any reason why this isn't suggested / why this wouldn't work?

 

[Galoka]

Pumping the whole house like you suggest would work (the installation guide for the ESP pumps, includes whole house systems).

Though you might want to consider whether you really do want the pump kicking in every time someone uses the hotwater to wash their hands or whatever. Pumps aren't the quietest things.