Hi all
I defrosted the freezer and now it doesn’t run. It’s been holding -18° all its life without any temp issues. When I powered it up after defrosting, the Power light, Temp display and Alarm light, were all flashing at about once a second. It looked like it was trying to start but then turning off again in a cycle.
I looked around the compressor and couldn’t see anything unusual apart from the relay housing being a bit beige, rather than off-white, so must have got a bit warm at some point. I tested the capacitor on the AVO and it did what it should do, so it’s not shorted or OC.
I thought I’d test the compressor’s start and run windings, but that’s where it gets “interesting”. The comp pins have a normal layout, i.e. common pin at the top, with the start and run windings’ pins below (triangle wise).
I got one winding reading 33Ω and the other reading 34Ω. No pins were shorting to earth and there was no lack on continuity anywhere. The total series resistance across both windings looked to be about 67Ω which ties in with the 33 + 34 above.
I realise that you would normally find a marked difference between these resistances, but it seems not in this case. Luckily I found the spec sheet for this compressor for reference (attached) which says the start and run windings should be 23.9Ω and 42.5 Ω respectively.
Now, I’m inclined to say that the compressor’s a bin job given the test results, but was just wondering if one of you was a cool as a cucumber fridge/HVAC engineer who has some arcane knowledge that could tell me otherwise. It would be so much easier for me to stuff a new relay or something in and see this old girl run again.
Cheers
I defrosted the freezer and now it doesn’t run. It’s been holding -18° all its life without any temp issues. When I powered it up after defrosting, the Power light, Temp display and Alarm light, were all flashing at about once a second. It looked like it was trying to start but then turning off again in a cycle.
I looked around the compressor and couldn’t see anything unusual apart from the relay housing being a bit beige, rather than off-white, so must have got a bit warm at some point. I tested the capacitor on the AVO and it did what it should do, so it’s not shorted or OC.
I thought I’d test the compressor’s start and run windings, but that’s where it gets “interesting”. The comp pins have a normal layout, i.e. common pin at the top, with the start and run windings’ pins below (triangle wise).
I got one winding reading 33Ω and the other reading 34Ω. No pins were shorting to earth and there was no lack on continuity anywhere. The total series resistance across both windings looked to be about 67Ω which ties in with the 33 + 34 above.
I realise that you would normally find a marked difference between these resistances, but it seems not in this case. Luckily I found the spec sheet for this compressor for reference (attached) which says the start and run windings should be 23.9Ω and 42.5 Ω respectively.
Now, I’m inclined to say that the compressor’s a bin job given the test results, but was just wondering if one of you was a cool as a cucumber fridge/HVAC engineer who has some arcane knowledge that could tell me otherwise. It would be so much easier for me to stuff a new relay or something in and see this old girl run again.
Cheers
