Air in 2 radiators - ongoing problem

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Sorry for the massive post but I thought it better to put as much info as possible.

I have an ongoing problem at a flat I rent out with 2 of the radiators needing bleeding.

The heating system was installed 29 years ago when it was converted to a flat. It’s an open vent system with copper pipes and a hot water cylinder where the water is heated by the boiler and stored in the cylinder but the cylinder can also heat water electrically by a switch next to the cylinder. The flat is on the top floor but is split level with 3 radiators on the upper level and 2 radiators and a heated towel rail on the lower level. The kitchen radiator (upper level) and the towel rail (lower level) are both new. The other 4 radiators are originals. The upper level radiators heat up first when the heating is turned on.

In May 2016, I spotted a small leak from the feed pipe from the header tank. I don’t know how long it had been leaking. The plumber came out and replaced this section of pipe.

The bathroom radiator was rusting badly and in July 2016 this was swapped for a heated towel rail.

The boiler broke and in October 2016 the boiler was changed for a Vaillant Ecotec Plus 415 ERP and a magnaclean was installed. The plumber did a manual flush of the heating system and put some inhibitor in the header tank. There was a lot of air in the radiators afterwards and you could hear air going round the system. I had to bleed the radiators several times.

The tenants told me the system was noisy. About 2 weeks later, the radiators on the upper level were full of air again. When I turned on the boiler, air was bubbling in the header tank (I think from being sucked through the vent pipe). The plumber told me to turn down the pump speed, so I changed it from 3 to 1 and bled the radiators again.

It was very cold and a few days later the tenants said the radiators on the lower level weren’t heating up. After doing some tests:-

1. When the pump was on 1 and both the heating and hot water were on, the 3 radiators on the lower level didn’t warm up. It was better when the pump was set to 2, but the lower 3 radiators only fully warmed up when I turned off the hot water.
2. I put the hot water and heating on separately. When only the hot water was on, the gurgling sound from the hot water cylinder and surrounding pipes was noisy (the header tank is above the cylinder in the loft). When they were both on, it was quieter. It was much quieter when only the heating was on.
3. The water in the header tank didn’t get warm.

I couldn’t turn the pump speed to 3 as the upper level radiators would get full of air within a few days.

In December 2016, the plumber converted the feed from the header tank into a combined feed and vent.

In February 2017 the radiator in the kitchen (upper level) was swapped for a new radiator.

Since October 2016, I have cleaned the magnaclean 4 times. The first time in November 2016 there was a massive amount of black sludge and a lot of debris in the debris collector. Each time since there has been less. The last time was a few days ago with a gap of 4 months from the previous cleaning. There was some sludge and no debris. The water in the system is now quite clear whereas it had been blackish before.

A few days ago I checked the radiators. Of the 3 on the upper level, the 2 original radiators were about ¼ to ½ full of water but the new radiator in the kitchen (which is much smaller than the other 2 radiators) was full of water. All the lower level radiators were full. The heating is off at the moment. I last bled the radiators 4 months previously.

The plumber said that if air was getting into the radiators after converting to a combined feed and vent, he would need to convert the system to a sealed (low pressure?) system which would mean installing an expansion vessel. Before doing this, I want to make sure the air in the 2 radiators is there because it is being drawn through the combined feed and vent as otherwise I presume it won’t help to convert the system.

I have read that other causes could be:-

• Hydrogen in the radiators from corrosion.
• A leak in the system is drawing in air.

Are there any other possible causes?

I have read I can check if it is hydrogen by lighting a match above the bleed valve when I bleed the radiator.

What should I do next?

If air is still being drawn into the system through the combined feed and vent, are there solutions other than converting it to a sealed system?

I’m wondering if it might be worth getting another plumber for a second opinion.

Thanks to anyone who reads and replies!
 
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If air is still being drawn into the system through the combined feed and vent,
If that is happening you will be able to see it just by looking into the expansion tank when the system is running.
Converting to a sealed system would prevent air being drawn in, but that isn't a solution because air should not be getting in anyway.
Unless it was badly designed to start with, air gets into open vent systems because there are blockages.

Given the other info, it's more likely to be extensive corrosion and the 'air' is the products of that corrosion.
The solution to that is to replace all of the radiators. If the pipes are copper and can be flushed out it may be possible to reuse them.
If the pipes are steel, replace them as well.
 
The pipes are copper, apart from a small section in the loft where the plumber converted the feed to a combined feed and vent which he did in plastic.

So I should first check for hydrogen from corrosion? The radiators have the old bleed screws where the 'air' escapes through the thread of the bleed screw rather than through a separate hole as on the modern valves. Do I undo the screw and hold a match/lighter above the escaping gas? There is nothing directly above the radiators that could catch fire.

If it is not hydrogen, I should then run the central heating and look at the expansion tank in the loft. Presumably I am looking for bubbles in the expansion tank?

If it is neither of these, it is presumably a leak in the system and I should add some leak sealer?

Thanks
 
A bit of progress.

I was at the flat yesterday. I last checked the radiators 2 weeks ago. Yesterday they were full of water. The heating hasn't been on.

I then ran the heating and checked the expansion tank in the loft. It is not drawing in any air through the combined feed and vent in the expansion tank.

I was also at the flat today. I checked both radiators again and there was a bit of gas in each which was flammable.

So the 'air' is flammable gas but this only appears when the heating has been on. No gas appeared when the heating was off.

Should I try draining the system again and running through some water to flush it some more? Or should I bite the bullet and change the remaining 4 older radiators? Or does anyone have any other suggestions.

Thanks
 
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Before just replacing radiators on block I would get your system PROPERLY power-flushed and dosed with a decent inhibitor.

I would also get an electrician to check the appliances and earthing in the property as even a small earth leakage through the pipework/radiators can set up an electrolytic process that can cause hydrogen gas to be formed which would then collect in top of radiators.
 
electrolytic process that can cause hydrogen gas to be formed which would then collect in top of radiators.

Not uncommon. Be aware that the process produces hydrogen and oxygen in a ratio of volumes that can be explosive. The hazard is if the flame flashes back through the bleed valve and into the radiator. That said the small hole in the bleed valve makes flash back almost impossible.
 
View media item 29821Invert an empty tin over the bleed screw and collect the lighter than air gas. Close bleed screw. Apply an ignition source to the tin et voila.
Combining feed and vent is best done this way.
 
I had a new consumer unit put in 9 months ago and the electrician tested all the circuits. I will ask if he tested for earth leakages to the radiator pipes. Looking in the cupboard with the hot water cylinder, pump, 3 way valve, programmer, etc, most of the pipes had earth wires attached.

I now have further problems and I don't know what to do.

After Wednesday when I ran the heating, the tenant told me the heating had come on in the morning. I went to check I had reset everything correctly. It was all fine, but I saw the dial had broken from the main body of the wall thermostat, so it wasn't working properly. Yesterday I did a like for like swop - a Honeywell T6360.

I then turned on the hot water at the programmer. The heating was turned off and the wall stat was set to 10 degrees. The radiators started heating up. I spoke to the plumber and he said it could be the 3 port motorised valve. I ran off all the hot water and waited for the pipes to cool down. He had told me to turn on the hot water only and check the pipes on both sides of the T of the 3 way valve, as far away from the valve before the pipe went through the floor. After about 10 minutes the radiators were warm and both pipes out of the 3 way valve were hot. The valve was making a clicking noise and the lever was mid way between 'auto' and 'man open'. I then turned the programmer to heating only. The valve stopped clicking and the radiators became hot. The lever on the valve stayed in the mid position. I then turned off everything and the lever stayed in the mid position. He said he thought the valve needs replacing. It is a Honeywell F5-9634. As I was resetting everything, I noticed that with both the heating and hot water off at the programmer, when I turned up the wall stat, after it clicked the boiler fired up. When I turned the stat down the boiler switched off.

I told him about the hydrogen in the 2 radiators. He said I would need a powerflush or to change the radiators but it would be better to get it power flushed first. He also said I shouldn't change the 3 way valve until after it is powerflushed as slugde,etc could get into the valve. I asked if the wall stat firing up the boiler while the heating and hot water is switched off was because of the faulty valve or a separate problem. He thought it would be a separate electrical fault. He doesn't do powerflushing or electrical faults with the boiler/heating controls.

He told me to turn off the radiators at the valves until I can get the 3 way valve fixed. I turned of the 5 radiators but left on the heated towel rail in the bathroom.

As the plumber doesn't do powerflushing or boiler control electrics, I don't know what order to do everything.

1. Might the new wall stat be faulty? I took a picture of the wiring before I changed it and wired it up exactly as before. The old one was definitely working correctly before it broke.

2. Might the programmer be faulty or does it sound like it is a faulty 3 way valve?

3. Should I get an electrician in first before doing the powerflush/changing the 3 way valve?

4. Does it make sense to get whoever does the powerflush to change the 3 way valve at the same time?

5. Does anyone have any other suggestions or comments?

Thanks again for everyone's help. I really appreciate it as this whole thing is massively stressing me out.
 

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