Angle beads rusting through plaster

[UsernameAlreadyTaken]

Hello All

I am about to re-tile a downstairs cloakroom. The angle beads on the window recess have rusted through the plaster so much the actual bead is disintegrating in places. It is a single skin wall that the window is in. It is damp in there, largely due to condensation, which should now have been addressed.

A builder has recommended putting some red oxide on the bead, but in my opinion it is too far gone - quite literally, it crumbles apart in your fingers.

My thoughts is to dig out the existing angle bead, replace with new and make good. Is there anything else I can do instead?

All thoughts appreciated.

Tom

 

[Micilin]

I would say get rid of the beading.

Red oxide is not going to solve anything and I'm a bit worried that it was suggested.

I would also make sure all the existing is sound before tiling.

Best to sort it out now , rather than down the line.

 

[UsernameAlreadyTaken]

Thanks Micilin.

I was thinking hammer and chisel to get it out, replace, and probably use ready mix plaster to make good, or maybe just some filler depending on how much plaster comes off.

I don't think the builder realised just how much the beading had rusted. He said to wire brush it back to bare metal and red oxide it so I guess he thought it was just surface rust.

Tom

 

[Richard C]

You need to get rid of the rusty beading but I would be a little concerned about why it rusted through in the first place. It’s usually a sign of damp in the wall itself rather than condensation, possibly due to being a single skin wall; this needs to be cured, you cannot tile over damp it will fail.

I would not advise using one coat plaster or filler if you intend tiling, they are not ideal & you could have to wait anything between 10 – 28 days before tiling; it also has weight restrictions which could give problems depending on the size of your tiles. Use either a quickset render or powder cement tile adhesive.

Who is doing the tiling? I would also advise you read the Tiling Forum Sticky & archive posts to avoid making potentially expensive mistakes with regard to preparation & choice of tiling materials.

 

[UsernameAlreadyTaken]

Thanks Richard.

I'm hoping the damp problem has been cured - I think it was a combination of a few factors, probably exacerbated by the condensation thing, but I'm not 100% sure.

I was today discussing the job with a fellow DIYer who is far more experienced than me and he said I didn't need to take out the rusty angle bead and that I should just place new over existing and feather in the plaster over it. I'm not sure I like that idea but he seemed to think it wouldn't be a problem.

I will be doing the tiling - I have tiled a fair bit before, so am comfortable with the basics. I will have a look at the tiling pages, however, is there anything blindingly obvious I need to know?

Thanks again.

Tom

 

[joe-90]

If you are tiling the corner why bother with a bead? Maybe I've misread the post somehow?

 

[roughcaster]

If you are tiling the corner why bother with a bead? Maybe I've misread the post somehow?

I'd agree with Joe.
Definitely take out the old rusting bead, square off the corner with bonding plaster or similar, let the plaster dry out, then tile,,, no need for a corner bead.

 

[UsernameAlreadyTaken]

Interesting!

I suppose my issue is that the window recess is only going to be part-tiled but the whole length of each of the angle beads is rusty. I like the plan of squaring off the edges that will be tiled over, but what about the area above the tiles (approx two thirds of the window recess?

Thanks for all the advice!

 

[roughcaster]

Ok. If that's the case, i'd still remove the whole rusty bead/s and then replace with a new one down the whole length of the reveal/s. That way, it'll save you messing about with bits of beading above the tiles.