Can someone offer some advice. My boiler's pump will only run if I turn up the stat on the HW and then only until the stat reaches temp. I thought I had a faultly drive on the diverter valve and replaced it over the weekend, but that didn't help. I have now put the old drive back on and have managed to get the CH working by setting the drive to manual and depressing the micro switch. Any suggestions would be gratefully received.
another Heatslave 20/25 problem.
- Thread starter Nealy
- Start date
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Have you got a room stat?, if so have it checked
Check first that the programmer is feeding the PCB.
Then check that the CH thermostat is operating.
Check for a power feed to the diverter valve.
Check that the DHW stat is switching off.
If you have power to the diverter valve and it is not opening, then change the synchron motor.
If it is opening but not switching boiler, then change actuator head
Then check that the CH thermostat is operating.
Check for a power feed to the diverter valve.
Check that the DHW stat is switching off.
If you have power to the diverter valve and it is not opening, then change the synchron motor.
If it is opening but not switching boiler, then change actuator head
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Where are you Nealy, I am in Penrith and OFTEC registered.
Oilhead..Both HW and CH stats are cutting in and out. The drive itself is moving, but then it appears to slip and I get this clicking noise. I'm thinking is the brass valve itself faulty! But then again the system works if I put the drive to manual and depress the mirco switch.
What do you mean by "micro switch"? Multiple irregular problems would point to the PCB.
You said it was a valve/pump problem first of all?
Which diverter valve is fitted to your boiler?
If it is the ACL one, then the drive quadrant is plastic, and after a while, the first 2 or 3 teeth wear and don't engage.
If it is the ACL one, then the drive quadrant is plastic, and after a while, the first 2 or 3 teeth wear and don't engage.
Mike2007.....With the CH on, the pump won't run until the lever of the drive for the diverter value is moved to the manual position. This movement of the lever depresses a micro switch or contact (call it what you may) and I would guess moves the brass valve into another position. Only with the micro switched closed does the pump run. So this has led me to think the drive was faulty. I have replaced the drive but that has not solved my problem. Again I'm led to believe the replacement drive is correct. So yes it could be a PCB fault or it could be the brass valve itself. Not having spare parts, I wanted to seek expert advice before I took my next step.
I have a brand new brass body in stock if you want to fit it? I can't "lend" it though? Ring me. 868492
Thanks Mike for the offer, but I had a good look at it yesterday and I have now got the system running as it should. It was the valve drive that was at fault, I don't know what I had done the first time I replaced it, but every thing is OK now. Many thanks for your input.
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