Any update on non yellowing?

[paul243]

Sorry to raise this yet again,but has anyone come up with a definative answer to which gloss and satin paint is least likely to turn yellow quickly?
Thanks

 

[joe-90]

Be on the safe side and go water based. All oil paints yellow and always have.

 

[ozz1243]

iv been a painter for years, dulux stays whiter for the longest iv found. stay away from water based gloss when the first coat is dry and you put the next coat on you can see its turned a shade yellow. plus unless your using a top quality brush you can get a good finish on it

 

[dcdec]

"stay away from water based gloss when the first coat is dry and you put the next coat on you can see its turned a shade yellow"

Really?, never had a problem with WB yellowing

If your gonna use OB the dulux blue lid is the best of a bad bunch.

Johnstones WB are good in satin, gloss and u/c, look for the aqua labelled gloss and u/c
Sikkens satura BL and BL u/c are excellent

 

[opps]

Johnstones WB are good in satin, gloss and u/c, look for the aqua labelled gloss and u/c
Sikkens satura BL and BL u/c are excellent

I had to use the Johnstones WB eggshell last week. Hated every effing minute of using it.

What primers do you use with it? I had number of (previously WB painted)veneered firecheck doors that have had been made wider. There was a noticable step where the timber meets the veneer, I sanded it back and used WB primer, a light sand and then the Johnstones, which raised the veneer at a different rate to the grain in the timer, I sanded the eggshell back and it did the same thing with the next coat. I am back on site next week and guessing that I will have to use OB UC over the area, wait for it to dry and then feather off before returning back to the evil eggshell.

Ordinarily 2 coats of OB would have sufficed (plus spot prime with WB UC), I will probably be looking at 4 coats now, plus much longer sanding times. Plus longer dusting off times (the sanded WB seems to want to stick to the surface). Plus i have to wash my brushes out each day, with OB I just leave them in a BrushMate and to top it off the paint costs are higher.

With regard to WB paints, I have never come across a WB finish that can be sanded as flat as OB. Additionally some, eg the Johnstones are ruining my brushes even though I keep spraying them with mists of water whilst in use. If I spray too frequently the brush becomes wet and floppy, if not enough then the dry paint on the bristles ends up in the finish.

End of rant

 

[dcdec]

Opps i havn't used the Johnnstones WB eggshell, i believe farrow and ball is one of the better ones. Unfortunately my customers don't go for eggshell much so i havn't had to deal with it. I have heard that little green OB eggshell is good on non yellowing as they use a different oil medium, some decs moan about it but i would suggest its their lack of skill rather than the paint itself, coverstain may be a better primer but i don't have any experience painting veneers so you'd no more than me, perhaps a sanding sealer might help or a coat of gardz?

No-ones arguing that WB is a better product in fact we all know compared to pre 2010, u/c rubbed down dead flat and glosses well applied achieved mirror like finishes.
Personally i'm getting on ok with WB u/c and gloss, i like the sikkens and johnstones products, i agree with your comments on the paint drying on the brush so what i do is periodically wash the brush out completely, it doesn't take long and if you want to store overnight just leave in a kettle filled with water.
I have to admit i'm tired of the stink from OB paints, going home with a headache and clients moaning about the smell, awkward clean up, slow drying times and the risk of yellowing. Its all too much hassle now, all i use OB for is exteriors and if the client expressly doesn't want WB after i explain the pro's and con's. The finish is a compromise but i'm banking on improvements from the manufacturers in the coming months and years

 

[opps]

Opps i havn't used the Johnnstones WB eggshell, i believe farrow and ball is one of the better ones. Unfortunately my customers don't go for eggshell much so i havn't had to deal with it. I have heard that little green OB eggshell is good on non yellowing as they use a different oil medium, some decs moan about it but i would suggest its their lack of skill rather than the paint itself, coverstain may be a better primer but i don't have any experience painting veneers so you'd no more than me, perhaps a sanding sealer might help or a coat of gardz?

No-ones arguing that WB is a better product in fact we all know compared to pre 2010, u/c rubbed down dead flat and glosses well applied achieved mirror like finishes.
Personally i'm getting on ok with WB u/c and gloss, i like the sikkens and johnstones products, i agree with your comments on the paint drying on the brush so what i do is periodically wash the brush out completely, it doesn't take long and if you want to store overnight just leave in a kettle filled with water.
I have to admit i'm tired of the stink from OB paints, going home with a headache and clients moaning about the smell, awkward clean up, slow drying times and the risk of yellowing. Its all too much hassle now, all i use OB for is exteriors and if the client expressly doesn't want WB after i explain the pro's and con's. The finish is a compromise but i'm banking on improvements from the manufacturers in the coming months and years

I have only used the exterior F&B eggshell. To be fair, with Floetrol it did flow better than i expected but that said, it failed pretty quickly.

I haven't tried the sikkens, someone else recently recommended Tikkurrila Furniture paint.

Do you wait for the brush to dry before using it again. I find my brushes are too floppy when wet. The Johnstones is definitely the worst i have come across with regard to drying on the brush, it is even worse than the DT MDF primer.

The smell of OB doesn't bother me but I am aware of the health risks. I really would love to use WB but, for me personally, I still think that they are inferior in most aspects bar yellowing/drying and health.

I am less confident about improvements in WB paints, they have been around for ages and haven't improved that much thus far. Let's home that my cynicism is unfounded...

 

[dcdec]

I just spin the brush out, i use coronas and picasso's which help greatly in the finish.
You are right WB is inferior but way better than say ten years ago, the 2010 thing has pushed things along fairly quickly and i think the WB/OB hybrid is a much more recent development and has improved the coatings a lot.

Got to admit though if i went on a really high spec job i probably would use OB for the superior finish.

 

[opps]

I did pick up some of the Purdys Nylox, designed specifically for latex paint, when I was last in the USA. i think that they are slightly better than the similar looking Purdy XL but TBH I haven't used them enough to to be certain.

I haven tried coronas and picasso's, the only other decent brushes I have are Woosters. I haven't seen any of them in the shops in london yet but i have heard good things about them.

I can't understand why UK brushes are so crap compared to American brushes. I am not even aware of any decent european brushes. 20 years ago i thought Anza synthetics were good until Purdy et al stepped up UK distribution. Looking back, I was comparing them to those awful Hamilton Perfections and I guess that i was just glad to have a brush that only lost one or two bristles an hour.

 

[ic1927]

Wooster alphas and silvertips are good brushes, the proform picasso oval ferrule angled brush is the best brush I've ever used, it makes detailed cutting in much easier.

 

[opps]

the proform picasso oval ferrule angled brush is the best brush I've ever used, it makes detailed cutting in much easier.

Thanks for the heads up. I have a number of angled Purdys but haven't been overwhelmed by amount of paint they hold when cutting in. Will give the Picasso a try