balancing central heating system

You only need to remove the pump head.

Removing pump valve ring nuts is difficult for anyone if they were not fitted with silicone grease as I do.

Sometimes we have to saw through them to get them off!

Brass and steel corrode together, particularly in the presence of water!

Tony
 
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You only need to remove the pump head.

Removing pump valve ring nuts is difficult for anyone if they were not fitted with silicone grease as I do.

Sometimes we have to saw through them to get them off!

Brass and steel corrode together, particularly in the presence of water!

Tony

Tony. Thanks for info again. But the valve will have to come off as it is not functioning. I had the problems you highlight when I changed the pump 6 years ago. I have partially backed of all nuts and all moved quite easily so fingers crossed
 
PROBLEM SORTED

Many thanks to all who assisted. Problem was a broken shaft on pump valve hence the valve was floating around reducing flow. The system is quieter than ever..

I managed to use the bung method to good effect with blue tac although I did bale out the expansion tank
 
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took a look at header tank. Nothing untoward .
In my original post I highlited bypass radiator
should valves be fully open

No the bypass radiator can be balanced like the rest.

Could be a blocked feed pipe and the system isn't topping up.
You bleed the radiator and this just robs water from other radiators
this when balances up as the pump runs around.

The other test to do would be to try and light the gas in the radiators.
If it goes off with a pop it is hydrogen caused by an
electrical fault.

Only if you set 11c over a standard efficiency and 20c over a condensing boiler.
 

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