Baxi Barcelona Cutting Out

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Hi
This is a strange one .We have a 7 year old Baxi Barcelona Condensing boiler and as the title says it keeps cutting out .But the interesting thing is that when we take of the cover to the boiler ( so you can see the fan,trap etc etc .It works perfectly?? .

Why does it cut out when the front cover is on but NOT when its off ?? .

There is no damp inside the boiler ,and i have cleaned out the condensate trap .Not that it needed it ,its firing up everytime except when the covers on .Its in the garage not in the home and its cold in there but not damp .

Any ideas on this ? .Its if its lack of air flow or damp air thats causing the problem .But like i have said it was dry as toast inside the bolier .Where do i go from here ? .

Thanks

Alan
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Lynda, moderator

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Its been off and on to many times to be a trapped wire .

The PCB joint being dry .Explain more where is it and what to do to put it right please ? .

Thanks

Alan
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Lynda, moderator

Please note forum rule 7
 
On the inside of the cover in the round bit that sticks out, is there any insulation or is it bare metal.

Try putting some insulation tape across the electrode connections.
 
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im maybe thinking about the wrong boiler but the barcelona had an issue with the inner case seal crumbling to dust and causing the fan stat to lockout. look at the bottom of the case below the fan near the front, if you see white dust or lumps of white seal then get a registered engineer to replace the INNER case seal....oh and get a new burner as well cos it is most likely cracked too
 
Yes combustion door seals shot leading to overheat stat on fan doing its job.Replace door complete with seals and electrodes and kill two turds with one stone.
 
nickso said:
im maybe thinking about the wrong boiler but the barcelona had an issue with the inner case seal crumbling to dust and causing the fan stat to lockout. look at the bottom of the case below the fan near the front, if you see white dust or lumps of white seal then get a registered engineer to replace the INNER case seal....oh and get a new burner as well cos it is most likely cracked too

white or red spot on ;) promax is the same
 
Hi Folks

Thanks for the input its great .

O.k yes there is insulation on the inner door in the concave round bit so i dont think its that .
I havent found any white bits at the bottom front of door as you put it .But after inspecting the seal its quite spongy around 3 of the sides .But as you would look at the door the right sided one is very dry and brittle but has not broken away .But i tried pressing it and yes it does crumble a bit .But i will repeat there is none at the bottom of the boiler inside base .

O.k , A few more questions .Do i need to get a whole new door as one reply has put it .Or can i get these strips myself and glue them in ,If so what glue is used .Or do i have to get a qualified plumber to do it .

And is it dangerous running this boiler with the front off for a short while ?.

Brilliant answers and thank you .

Alan
 
Hmm

I maybe thick but ??? .

How does the inner seal crumbling cause it to lock out ?.

Just think about this for a min to my particular problem .When the case is on it locks out yes .So your saying that the seal isnt meeting right or sealing right .
Well then how when i take this door off ,which is like basically having no seal ( like a seal crumbling ) does it work ? .


Think im missing something here .But surely if a new seal was in place and it actually sealed it .It would get even hotter and lock out no ?.

If i am right does this point to a faulty fan thermo stat ? .

Hmm a bit puzzled .

Alan
 
I know if anybody else has noticed I say this alot but APS maybe the cause of the problem I would change that first.
 
Fast_Muchly said:
Hmm

I maybe thick but ??? .

How does the inner seal crumbling cause it to lock out ?.

Just think about this for a min to my particular problem .When the case is on it locks out yes .So your saying that the seal isnt meeting right or sealing right .
Well then how when i take this door off ,which is like basically having no seal ( like a seal crumbling ) does it work ? .


Think im missing something here .But surely if a new seal was in place and it actually sealed it .It would get even hotter and lock out no ?.

If i am right does this point to a faulty fan thermo stat ? .

Hmm a bit puzzled .

Alan

change the seal and see how it goes...its a cheap repair and needs doing by the sounds of it.

the broken seal allows heat to get to the stat attached to the fan
 
I have had faulty pressure switches that do nothing until you let a bit of air in by undoing the casing. If the seals look damaged replace them because of the danger but I think you will be getting an APS too
 
Hi
I just answered my own question .Yes i am thick !!.

Your talking about the actual combustion door the one you see the flame thru .With the other post of is there any insultion on the outer door protecting the sensors i thought we were still on about that door .God i see how it works now if the combustion door seal has shrunk etc it fills the rest of the sealed boiler with hot air and triggers the thermo on the fan which then cuts out the boiler .

God i must have been half a sleep yesterday .

Can i replace the seal then ,whats it made of nothing dangerous like asbestos ? Or is it easier for the whole door to be bought and repalced altho i should think thats expensive .

Thanks

Alan
 

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