Best treatment for external wooden cladding

[RegB]

Hi Chaps,
Does anyone have any tips for the best way to treat external wooden cladding (on a sun room). The boards are redwood v-lining. I replaced the boards on one side of the sun room two years and treated them with Ronseal Trade 10 Year woodstain, but now I notice this is already starting to flake off. Is that to be expected or does anyone have any better ideas? I'm about to do the other sides now so want to avoid making the same mistakes. Many thanks. Reg

 

[opps]

If you are willing to sand them back, consider something like Saddolins or Sikkens oil.

BTW, if you go for a clear finish, the redwood may turn silver over time....

 

[foxhole]

You could scorch the timber Jap style if you like the look.

 

[RegB]

Thanks for the ideas opps and foxhole. Haven't used Sadolin or Sikkens before, though I've heard of them. If I use them, can I put another covering over the top, such as stain?

 

[opps]

Thanks for the ideas opps and foxhole. Haven't used Sadolin or Sikkens before, though I've heard of them. If I use them, can I put another covering over the top, such as stain?

Conventionally, stains are applied to new wood before any finishes are applied.

Both brands that I recommended sell opaque coloured finishes, negating the need for any stains.

By the way of an example, I recently used Sikkens mahogany oil to paint a couple of (exterior) tongue and groove doors. They had previously been painted with black gloss but after 2 years the paint had started flaking off. I sanded them back to wood and used the Sikkens. I used 3 coats and from a distance they look black, close up you can see the wood/grain detail.

 

[JohnD]

On my cladding, I mostly use boiled linseed oil. It lasts quite well and sheds water. It is easy to re-coat unless you have neglected it and the wood has discoloured. You must apply thin coats that soak in and remove anything that lies on the surface.

I pre-treated mine with wood dye because I wanted it dark.

 

[RegB]

Great tips guys. Thanks for the ideas.

 

[johnny2007]

Conventionally, stains are applied to new wood before any finishes are applied.

Both brands that I recommended sell opaque coloured finishes, negating the need for any stains.

By the way of an example, I recently used Sikkens mahogany oil to paint a couple of (exterior) tongue and groove doors. They had previously been painted with black gloss but after 2 years the paint had started flaking off. I sanded them back to wood and used the Sikkens. I used 3 coats and from a distance they look black, close up you can see the wood/grain detail.

.
Note to self: Should read more attentively.

 

[Millwright]

I had new timber gates fitted 10 years ago. I painted them with Sikkens HLS Plus and Filter 7 and they've needed nothing doing to them in 10 years.

 

[Eccles]

Sikens is definitely good stuff IMO but why not use something which is designed for exterior use from day one, i.e. yacht varnish.

 

[Millwright]

Sikkens is designed for exterior use.

 

[JohnD]

Yacht varnish is a lot of effort to maintain.