Tony
Thanks for taking the trouble.
Steve
Thanks for taking the trouble.
Steve
Biasi 424s - erratic
- Thread starter steviebobs
- Start date
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Tony
All working fine over Christmas period. I did reduce the risc to half and it has worked fine at not more than 1/2 CH setting despite -6 degrees outside.
My rads total about 15 KW whcih suggests that the 1/2 risc setting matches the right point on the graph curve in the installation handbook I have.
The last time I tried reducing the risc, I guess the original diverter fault was on so the reduction of the risc was having no effect.
As an aside, does the beter efficiency of the boiler operation suggest better economy? I have found this boiler to be very economical compared with the old one ( an old freestanding Ideal Standard with grav DHW and pumped CH.
Thanks again
Steve
All working fine over Christmas period. I did reduce the risc to half and it has worked fine at not more than 1/2 CH setting despite -6 degrees outside.
My rads total about 15 KW whcih suggests that the 1/2 risc setting matches the right point on the graph curve in the installation handbook I have.
The last time I tried reducing the risc, I guess the original diverter fault was on so the reduction of the risc was having no effect.
As an aside, does the beter efficiency of the boiler operation suggest better economy? I have found this boiler to be very economical compared with the old one ( an old freestanding Ideal Standard with grav DHW and pumped CH.
Thanks again
Steve
Tony
I may have spoken too soon in my post earlier today. I took a look at the boiler at 1015 this morning as the heating had gone off.
I noticed that the Lock-Out had activated and the big red lamp was on.
Despite resetting several times, the boiler would not fire (no ignition sparks)
I let it for a while, with the mains supply off completely, and eventually, after a few resets, the igniters sparked and the burner lit.
The effect of this is potentially to not fire at all and leave me with no CH or DHW.
Any ideas?
Steve
I may have spoken too soon in my post earlier today. I took a look at the boiler at 1015 this morning as the heating had gone off.
I noticed that the Lock-Out had activated and the big red lamp was on.
Despite resetting several times, the boiler would not fire (no ignition sparks)
I let it for a while, with the mains supply off completely, and eventually, after a few resets, the igniters sparked and the burner lit.
The effect of this is potentially to not fire at all and leave me with no CH or DHW.
Any ideas?
Steve
The RISC should be set as low as possible commensurate with the boiler providing enough heat, it will be quieter, give longer life and be a little more efficient.
The boiler will modulate down as required as the place warms up.
Your current boiler is about 84% efficient compared with perhaps 65% for you previous boiler so it should be much cheaper to run.
The ignition lock out light will operate if the boiler fails to operate the APS or to ignite, sometimes this is caused by a failing fan or blocked venturi.
Its possible that its overheated and operated the o/H stat which you could try resetting.
Tony
The boiler will modulate down as required as the place warms up.
Your current boiler is about 84% efficient compared with perhaps 65% for you previous boiler so it should be much cheaper to run.
The ignition lock out light will operate if the boiler fails to operate the APS or to ignite, sometimes this is caused by a failing fan or blocked venturi.
Its possible that its overheated and operated the o/H stat which you could try resetting.
Tony
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Tony
Just a quick update in appreciation of your help in the past.
I have left the Risc at about half setting and all works fine from a DHW and CH point of view.
On the odd occasion over the past 2 weeks or so, on cold days when I have upped the CH control to half (or above) I have found that Ignition lock-out happens. Doesnt occur at lower settings. When reset all works ok. Cant see any reason for this - fan and venturi appear clear.
After drawing DHW the diverter appears to return immediately to CH position so bit of maintenance appears to have worked fine on original problem reported. The pin that operates the right-hand microswitch cannot be seen at all now when it has retracted. This is further than before even when it appeared to be working!
Regards
Steve
Just a quick update in appreciation of your help in the past.
I have left the Risc at about half setting and all works fine from a DHW and CH point of view.
On the odd occasion over the past 2 weeks or so, on cold days when I have upped the CH control to half (or above) I have found that Ignition lock-out happens. Doesnt occur at lower settings. When reset all works ok. Cant see any reason for this - fan and venturi appear clear.
After drawing DHW the diverter appears to return immediately to CH position so bit of maintenance appears to have worked fine on original problem reported. The pin that operates the right-hand microswitch cannot be seen at all now when it has retracted. This is further than before even when it appeared to be working!
Regards
Steve
Tony
The APS is a square one inside the chamber and the test point cap is in place and secure.
Steve
The APS is a square one inside the chamber and the test point cap is in place and secure.
Steve
The ignition lock out will light if no flame is detected. This is most often due to problems with the fan, venturi, APS or the ignition PCB or just possibly the gas valve or its connection to the Ign Pcb.
As there are so many possibilities I cannot point you to any particular part over the internet!
Tony
As there are so many possibilities I cannot point you to any particular part over the internet!
Tony
Thanks Tony
I'll keep in touch.
Regards
Steve
I'll keep in touch.
Regards
Steve
Tony
Just an update - all seems fine with no issues, thanks to you I say.
Did have a minor prob with pressure but think I tend to pressure just until middle green LED comes on, rather than a particular time beyond. Problem is, I dont know where the pressure is between min and max with the LED indicators, I would prob prefer a gauge.
Thanks yet again
Steve
Just an update - all seems fine with no issues, thanks to you I say.
Did have a minor prob with pressure but think I tend to pressure just until middle green LED comes on, rather than a particular time beyond. Problem is, I dont know where the pressure is between min and max with the LED indicators, I would prob prefer a gauge.
Thanks yet again
Steve
Your boiler stops working if the pressure falls to amber.
It keeps on working if its high on the red.
The solution is to pressurise it until the red just lights and then to leave it! Its not critical anyway.
Tony
It keeps on working if its high on the red.
The solution is to pressurise it until the red just lights and then to leave it! Its not critical anyway.
Tony
Tony
Thankx
Steve
Thankx
Steve
Tony
just an update
Did full drain, flush and refill with new inhibitor over summer. Pressured up to 'red light' and it has stayed there for at least 6 weeks now.
Regards
SjH
just an update
Did full drain, flush and refill with new inhibitor over summer. Pressured up to 'red light' and it has stayed there for at least 6 weeks now.
Regards
SjH
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