Biasi M90E 28 S - no hot water

[Jules09]

I have been reading some of the posts on here aboutBiasi boilers for some advice. I don't have any hot water at the moment but the central heating is working fine. I had an engineer out who checked the flow and pressure and told me he would suggest I get a new boiler as it would cost too much to replace the necessary parts which seems a drastic move seeing as the heating is working fine. He thought I would need a new board but reading some of the posts on here it looks like others have replaced boards and that hasn't solved the problem. I have someone coming to have a look tomorrow, can anyone suggest what he should look at and what the problems might be?

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

 

[Ray84]

Have a check here:
http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=258437

Your biasi and the ideal mini are the same in operation, just a few diffrent bits and bobs on them but either:

dhw flow switch not operating
pump flow switch not operating on hw
or a faulty diverter valve actuator
Could possibly be a sensor but i think id cross off the other items first and would of done so before looking at pcb's but who knows engineer may have done that already. Pcb's are a small fortune for these

Ray

 

[Agile]

Almost all of that is irrelevant Ray because the OP has determined that the fault code indicates the primary flow switch!

For those who confuse boiler parts that is NOT the DHW flow switch.

Tony

 

[Jules09]

Hi Tony/Ray

Thanks for your info so far but we are still trying to identify the exact problem. We think it might be the 3 way actuator as the readings for open circuit weren't showing correctly, have you come across this and do you think it is likely? I have worked out I can get hot water immediately after I turn my central heating on when the boiler hasnt' been fired up and is cold, this works without fail. Once the boiler has been fired up to supple the central heating for a while I lose the hot water function, so have to switch the heating off and let hte boiler cool down again, then I switch the heating on again and can get hot water straight away. It is as if something trips out and stops working once the boiler has been fired up for a while. Would the 3 way actuator cause this? If not, have you any idea what might cause it? Very grateful for any advice/pointers you can give us, thanks

 

[Agile]

I have explained exactly what your problem is.

However you prefer to ignore that and come up with your own guesses.

I suppose you think thar all plumbers are thick and that you must know better!

In that case I am surprised that you bothered to ask here in the beginning.

So go and change the diverter if that makes you happy.

Tony

 

[Ray84]

Have a check here:
http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=258437

Your biasi and the ideal mini are the same in operation, just a few diffrent bits and bobs on them but either:

dhw flow switch not operating
pump flow switch not operating on hw
or a faulty diverter valve actuator
Could possibly be a sensor but i think id cross off the other items first and would of done so before looking at pcb's but who knows engineer may have done that already. Pcb's are a small fortune for these

Ray

Almost all of that is irrelevant Ray because the OP has determined that the fault code indicates the primary flow switch!
For those who confuse boiler parts that is NOT the DHW flow switch.

Tony

Thats the same part and still the likely cause. Has your engineer checked it?

Ray

 

[Jules09]

Thanks guys, really appreciate your help. Tony, I don't think all plumbers are thick at all , far from it but some would prefer to sell you a new boiler than fix a problem with an existing one. I need to try and fix the boiler if I can rather than fork out cash I don't really have for a new one which is the first advice I was given. You are giving sound advice to people and I respect your opinion, I wasn't ignoring your advice, I had worked out the hot water comes on when the boiler is cold and thought that might mean something else, I just don't know anything about boilers and I can't keep paying for people to come out so am trying to get as much info to try and understand the problem and make an informed decision on whether I should replace a part or whether I do actually need a new boiler. Thanks

 

[Agile]

Any normal boiler less than about 12 years old can be repaired.

In your case the actual fault, regardlesss of how much you want to ignore the advice that Ray and I have given you, is relatively straightforward to fix.

There is no question that you need a new boiler. The only person who will tell you that are those who put lining their pockets above doing an honest repair at a reasonable cost.

Neither Ray nor I have any intention of fitting a new boiler for you and we give advice on this forum free of charge. Having said that I dont expect to have to give advice to enable a half baked engineer to be able to diagnose your fault. I expect them to be competent.

Tony