Biasi M90E 32S Keeps Shutting Down

[jcdel]

3 yrs old and the boiler keeps shutting down.Have had 3 diagnosis so far but not conclusive.1/It's a Biasi-they are trouble! 2/Diverter valve 3/Not diverter valve it's your PCB.
B.G. will come for a one off figure.Biasi not a problem but would recommend a service contract.I've been down this road before with the last house and to be honest the contract wasn't worth the paper.We are a rural area and the best heating engineers seem to be either on new build or contractual so any help would be great.The boiler fires up no problem on either DHW or CH.On CH ,the flame visibly reduces and then shuts off however if you turn the CH system off via the control and then back up to the temperature it fires up again for a short period.Eventually you have to totally let the system cool before attempting a restart.There is limited vision but there does not seem to be any attempt to re-ignite when it has shut down(no visible spark).Occasionally it will run nearly all night without a hiccup then the following day on and off .Guy at work says" it's blocked mate mine did that and I flushed it) works perfect nah!".

 

[twgas]

what exactly happens when you run a hot tap? Does anything get hot?
what happens when you turn the CH on? again, does anything heat up?

 

[Agile]

If you have the ability to do some simple tests and clearly tell me the result then I can tell you what the fault is.

Firstly your boiler was not the correct model to have been installed. Since April 2005 it should have been a condensing boiler!

These are very reliable boilers but not all engineers understand them because they are not Vaillant or Worcester so they just berate them when its their knowledge which is below par.

You dont say where you are located. We do have an engineer on this forum who could repair it but only if you are in his area.

Biasi also have service agents in Leeds and Sheffield etc.

I dont think its a very serious problem but would need you to do the tests for me.

Tony

 

[jcdel]

Thanks for all the replies.On a good day,I can run a bath (generally if heating hasn't been on).CH will fire up from cold and heat the whole house.After a while, sometimes 2 or 3hrs the flames slowly die and the boiler shuts down.What we have noticed is that while the flames are reducing,if we turn on the tap water, the flames will increase although this is a temporary reaction.After consultation,thru our dinner hour at work we have concluded that the fan runs and the diverter valve would appear to be doing it's job.At that point,it starts getting involved and brains run dry.We are on the east coast near Hull.I can get somebody out (recommended and Corgi)but it is a distance to come out diagnose and return if parts are needed).I have also been told that possibly a blockage because apparently the CH has been on full setting.(I don't know for how long,we have only been in this house 11months)

 

[jcdel]

Just got a reply from the previous owner.6yrs old.Last serviced 3yrs ago.Not used much in winter due to holiday home in Spain.Never had a problem although mainly used for hot water but was sub let for 7 mths prior to our purchase.Has fitted Biasi in all her properties without problem and will continue to do so.Boiler was checked but not serviced with no obvious problems.

 

[Agile]

Are you competent to open the left hand part of the PCB cover and make a small modification to the PCB ?

Or can you do that to your computer?

If so but NOT otherwise then depower and locate JP2.

It will have a link between 2+3

Move that to 3+4

That will enable the fault codes to be always shown on the three lights.

I need to know EXACTLY what each light is doing when its gone off ( or shut down as you call it. ).

Tony

 

[jcdel]

Many thanks for that Tony.Not a problem with the PCB.Probably tomorrow before I get back to you but you have given me hope.I had seen mention of the three LED's but only the left hand green was flashing so I presumed it was a factory pre-set similar to some of the equipment we work on.

 

[jcdel]

Boss let me nip home in my dinner hour!The duchess said she had been starting it about every hour via the on/off button.When I arrived,the flames were just about ready to extinguish.Isolated power.and removed the left hand cover ( not difficult no screws.they obviously couldn't get them in cos' the mains cable wouldn't let the cover go down flush.I presume you are suppose to cut back the plastic to allow the cable access.)
I took a gamble and fired it up because I assumed it would not show a fault code whilst seemingly working OK.After 10mins flames dropped/extinguished and then 2 outer green leds flashing(together) at approx 1 sec intervals with central red led on period.Once again many thanks for your help and advice.

 

[BOB D.O.L.E]

Faulty Temperature Probe NTC RIGHT 2 outer green leds flashing(together) at approx 1 sec intervals

LEFT 2 lights frost protection operation

 

[jcdel]

Thanks for the reply Bob D.O.L.E.Just to reiterate,I have the two outer green flashing with the centre red led permanently on.Does this still relate to the temperature probe. Thanks John

 

[Agile]

I think Bob has some kind of internal system error.

The code you are describing is the result of no flame present signal after a timed period. Expressed simply a lack of ignition sequence being completed.

A boiler engineer would check all the gas settings and relevant parts but would probably find that in over 80% of the cases its a faulty ignition PCB part number BI 1305101 probably about £90-£110.

Tony

 

[jcdel]

I appreciate all replies but I am struggling to come to terms with a PCB that works this way.Probably because a fair amount of our work is connected with error codes and led's,I am getting swayed a bit.I assume that the gas pressure is controlled by mechanical valves or is this where I am totally clueless?I arrive at all this because the flame does not shut down in one motion i.e the system works fine from cold for probably 2hrs and then slowly the flame will reduce and shut down.Approx 3 mins. after flame out the fan,pump etc shut down.Within seconds the error led's come on to prove lack of ignition(visibly you can see there is no ignition i.e no spark).Point I am getting at is:- after a few minutes you will get ignition and what appears to be a normal flame.Boiler will run fine again for probably 10mins sometimes even more.The longer the boiler is left to cool,the longer it will run.As the wife says it would not be a problem in summer.Also as previously stated,from cold you could run a full bath with no problems.I am at the crossroads again cos' clearly this is going to cost a packet and I would rather invest in a new boiler. Thanks