Blown Plaster and hairline cracks

[Deano3]

Hi everyone we have moved into a new house and i am trying to work through a lot of jobs, its a 1960s house, i have started on the stairs and there is a lot of hairline cracks in plaster on landing and on the top of the wall going down the stairs. 2 seperate issues here blown plaster and hairline cracks.

Firsly the plan was to open up the cracks on the internal plasterboard walls and make sure secured both sides with plasterboard screws what i have done and recessed the screws below the surface ready for filling, sometimes i seemed to not hit a stud but sometimes did even though in same line but i secured the cracked parts, especially above bedroom doors secured with 6 plasterboard screws, i was think going to fill cracks on the edges of boards with filler ( i have toupret interior filler), i seen a few videoes what said not to use tape as once secured should be fine as wil be no movement and tape will make it stick out from flush wall would you normally use a mesh tape or just fill aslong as all secured ?

Secondly the wall going up the stairs has a few hairline cracks so i opened them up exactly the same and planned on filling however i have noticed the plaster where it is cracked is loose around the cracks and away from the wall, what would your advice be here ? i know the loose plater will need removed but how far and how would you repair , would it require bonding then a skim of fine filler over the top ?

Or is there any other ways like drilling holes and glueing etc to hold onto plaster againt wall etc

Any help appreciated or video recomendations etc, i will attatch pictures below
Thanks Dean

 

[Wayners]

You can use a Tungsten scraper on board joins to take off a couple of mill to allow for a tape. I use a Bahco 625. Sinking a tape below original surface won't have a bump.
I cut the tape to about 15mm wide so it fits in scraped off channel

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[Deano3]

You can use a Tungsten scraper on board joins to take off a couple of mill to allow for a tape. I use a Bahco 625. Sinking a tape below original surface won't have a bump.
I cut the tape to about 15mm wide so it fits in scraped off channel

​

I seen a video where he scraped back to board with chisels etc and seemed hard work but if easier with a scraper I wouldn't mind that, will be ideal on cracks above doors etc and ceiling.

Does the tape help crack to not come back and would I firstly apply filler then use the mesh tape then apply more filler ontop ?

Thanks

 

[Wayners]

I use fiber fuse tape and that sets in filler.
The mesh tape is self adhesive however you can't set that in filler if you want.
Yeah. Tape stops the crack. I found the fine mesh better than the standard

 

[Deano3]

I use fiber fuse tape and that sets in filler.
The mesh tape is self adhesive however you can't set that in filler if you want.
Yeah. Tape stops the crack. I found the fine mesh better than the standard

So I could fill the gap, tape with the mesh, re fill level ?

Can see cracks on ceiling aswel so may purchase one of the tools you recommended and then secure boards and tape and fill again.

Thanks dean

 

[Wayners]

Yeah. You will work it out.
Tip. Bit of PVA and water helps in the channel you scrape.
Give you more working time to get it tidy.
Damp sponge the filler edges as you go to blend in.
When filler sets go over again with fresh mix. Repeat until good.
If filler dries for a few hours it's harder to skim over Vs wet but set filler