Boarding out loft for storage.. specifics

[Liam761]

Hi all,

Firstly, sorry about the pics, I haven't been able to sketch-up working, so this is my attempt using Word's drawing tools..

I intend to board out a section of the loft to store the usual rubbish. I intend to cross batten the original fink roof truss, which has a 100*35 joists at 600 centres, with 4*2 cls at 400 centres (width of the existing insulation), and then fit 18mm loft boards (1220*320) from Wickes.

Key to the roof truss piccy below. Width of entire truss (front to back of house) is approx 6800. Distance between nodes of truss where I plan to board is approx 2220. The green lines are the load bearing walls. The red rectangle is the area I intend to board, area = 4200*2440 roughly. The furthest truss is up against the party wall. The rectangular splodge is the loft hatch. See above apology re. Word..

As you can see, the load bearing wall will take up the slack on two sides with the party wall at the end taking up that end's load. I'll be joist hanging the cross battens direct to the party wall directly above the joist. The blue line shown in line with the LB wall is a doorway.

Below is the layout of the boards, catching a batten for the ends of each board

I'll be skew screwing the battens to the existing joists, and as I'll be using 2400 4*2, I'll alternate the battens 2400-1800 and 1800-2400 to cover the length of the floored area, and with the 600 offcut, I'll glue and screw it to the side of the join, sort of creating seven 4200 battens in effect. I'll then screw down the boards as shown. I have no plumbing to worry about, except for one stack pipe inside one of the nodes, and the only electrical that I have under this floor is the landing light next to the hatch, fed from the right as you look, and switched from the left. As those cables are under the first row of boards, they can be accessed just by undoing a few screws, rather than having to worry about the T&G in the middle of the floor.

I hope this enough info..

Is it going to be OK to continue?

Thanks in advance

Liam

 

[Liam761]

Yes, no, maybe?

 

[chickenlips]

For a light storage area, it should be ok so long as what ever you plan store up there is spread evenly across the area and not all piled up in a few areas. Also that it is 'the usual rubbish' and not someones old antique oak desk etc.

Also keep in mind the position of the loadbearing walls, try and keep the heaviest stuff over that area.

The most important thing probably is though, DO NOT REMOVE any of the 22 x 100 bracing members, theses are structural timbers designed to keep your roof up.

If it was a new roof to be designed with light storage in mind, you are probably looking at an additional loading added to the truss and the ceiling alot larger section. Probably 150mm minimum .
The truss you have is not designed to take any additional loading other then for maintanence of the roof space.

People do tend to get carried away when they have a boarded out area in a loft space as it never ends up been the usual rubbish up there.

 

[dhutch]

Dont know the ins and outs of what the regulations might be in this area but that sounds plausable to me. When I did mine I added the extenders parallel as I was doing it before the insulation was fitted, and screwed 3*2 blocks, wtih 3*2 ontop of that, to give me 10inchs without using expensive and oversized 6*3 (the blocks where just off cuts).

Thoughts below.
- 400 centers is fairly close, how are you going to ensure the insluation comes up between them?
- The Truses are almost certainly free-standing, and not dependant on the walls below.
- The loads from you stuff is unlikely to pose an issue, assuming your not stashing ingots.
- If you can get full size 8*2ft boards up there they will be cheaper then the 'DIY' size boards and require less fitting/securing/etc.
- I wouldnt glue anything


Daniel

 

[Liam761]

Cheers chaps

 

[Liam761]

Last answer was from the phone, hence shortness and sweetness of said reply..

Hi Daniel,

400 centres as that is the width of the FB insulation, so there'll be one run through the existing joists, with the original insulation, and then the top up insulation (topped up some years ago) will run across it between the new battens.

I'm fitting into the the recesses between trusses by about a foot, and the 8*2s make it more difficult to fit.. and I have plenty of time.. and screws..

No glue

Hi Chickenlips.. don't worry, no chopping out of existing being done.. and I only have the usual rubbish to put up there.. sadly I couldn't get the grand piano in if I tried..

Thanks again chaps

Cheers

Liam