Boiler only turns on with hot water not with CH

I have got a multimeter now. I will check which one is always live.

When you say post a list of what each pair is connected to, you mean check the voltage ?

I understand power to wiring cabinet will need to be on but what the controls on programmer , does it matter and can HW and CH be left off.
 
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From left to right when programmer CH on and Off

CH off CH On
T1 043 245 red and blank
T2 060 070 yellow and brown
T3 244 245 yellow and grey and green/yellow
T4 050 245 yellow and white
T5 060 070 red and orange
T6 0 0 blue and blue
T7 0 0 yellow/green and yellow/green
 
T1 is from “Heating On”output of the programmer, and continues to room thermostat, then coming back to T4 with 230V, if the room thermostat is demanding. From T4 to the white cable of three port valve meaning “Heating On”, now the orange wire of T5 should be 230V from the output of the three port valve. Here you only got T5 at 70V. It is the problem of the three port valve.
 
T1 is from “Heating On”output of the programmer, and continues to room thermostat, then coming back to T4 with 230V, if the room thermostat is demanding. From T4 to the white cable of three port valve meaning “Heating On”, now the orange wire of T5 should be 230V from the output of the three port valve. Here you only got T5 at 70V. It is the problem of the three port valve.

valve or just the actuator ? is it worth having a go at replacing the motor head ?

When I remove the head, valve seems to be moving fine.
 
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If you can separate the valve base body and actuator head, like Honeywell 4073, you might only need to replace the head only, or even just a Tower make motor inside the actuator.
 
If you can separate the valve base body and actuator head, like Honeywell 4073, you might only need to replace the head only, or even just a Tower make motor inside the actuator.

After following guidelines by Hailsham, I can separate Valve and Head, not sure if I can separate the motor part inside the actuator though.

It is V4073A 1039, any ideas where I can source just the head from. I have checked screwfix and they seem to do the full thing.

Also in a situation where I have to call someone, how much do you think a decent plumber should charge me for this. I am in West Yorkshire.

thanks
 
thanks, I will have a go at changing it myself. I am hoping wiring will be straight swap, if not I am in trouble.
 
thanks, I will have a go at changing it myself. I am hoping wiring will be straight swap, if not I am in trouble.
Turn electricial to the heating off, make sure it is dead.

Open the junction box where the valve's cables go into, one by one replaced following the colours.
 
From left to right when programmer CH on and Off

CH off CH On
T1 043 245 red and blank
T2 060 070 yellow and brown
T3 244 245 yellow and grey and green/yellow
T4 050 245 yellow and white
T5 060 070 red and orange
T6 0 0 blue and blue
T7 0 0 yellow/green and yellow/green
What I was asking for was:

T1 - Red - Programmer CH ON
T2 - Yellow - Programmer HW ON
T2 - Brown - HW stat terminal 1

etc etc
 
Guys, thanks ever so much for all the suggestions. I received the valve today and I have just finished replacing the Motor Head Only.

Turned CH on and boiler came on straight away, on and off a few times and it seemed fine working on its own.

Then I turned the HW on along with the CH, now when I switch HW off CH goes off as well and won't come back on its own. It does comes back when I switch CH off and then back on.

Boiler also comes back on if I move the lever on valve all the way to right. Could this be an issue with the actual valve and not the motor.

When I was replacing Motor Head, valve seem to be moving fine just a tiny bit in either direction.

Its finally so nice to have CH on in the house.

Thanks Hailsham, I checked the voltage after replacing the valve and with CH on there is 240 V on first 5 terminals and 0 on last two.
 

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