Bonding gutter advice

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I have a 1930s semi-detached house with had Rosemary tiles on top of boards on the rafters. We're having it replaced with membrane + batterns and Redland 49s, and I'm looking at how to join the roofs. I wish we just got newer Rosemary tiles but the roofer insisted on these and we made the decision asap due to the storms. Oh well.

Anyways, now my roofer is saying that they tried but can't use a bonding gutter, they are small Rosemary tiles with a lip and so they're getting raised too much and they'd need to replace all of the middle tiles. They also can't nail them in to the bonding gutter and so they're slipping. They recommend ridge tiles instead (dry-fix due to them needing to be mechanically fixed now).

My parents had this done years ago but it seems like this is an older approach. Are using ridge tiles still considered ok?
 

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OP,
Change roofers springs to mind but its not easy getting any kind of roofer in the British monsoon season.
You might also get a bad to worse roofer if you swapped roofers in mid-stream?

Was it ever discussed with the neighbour's that replacing their wet valley with a dry valley while the bonding gutter work was going on might have been a good idea?
Are both planes - front & rear - of the roof being done?

The thing is with bonding gutters is that the prep work must be spot on, and that hidden detailing can take a little time that some wont make - they just rush on , make it look OK from below, take the money, & never return.

When they claim the job is done then get up into your & your neighbour's lofts, & look for leaks from below.
Why not post pics showing a larger context of both roofs - & a pic showing how the valley & the BG are going to meet(?) & discharge at the elevation gutter?
 
Probably. What would you do here?
Lower the GRP BG, and sit it on (plywood) trays or noggs and all will sit nicely, so that the battens but up to the first profile on the BG.. Like we do with GRP dry valleys.....






 
Thanks for the advice and the clear photos! We can cut the battens on our side to lower it but I'm not sure how we could lower it on the neighbour's side since they still have boards on the rafters and nothing underneath. The roofers were implying that their tiles are rising because of the height of the gutter on their side when it's on their boards. Would lowering it on our side but keeping theirs where it is help to fix their tiles rising?

Also, the roofer said that we should use a dry ridge system over the boundary instead to avoid disturbing their tiles, and they've gone and installed it. Is this a bullshit idea and should I get them to remove it?
 
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Would lowering it on our side but keeping theirs where it is help to fix their tiles rising?
I can't see that working no.


Also, the roofer said that we should use a dry ridge system over the boundary instead to avoid disturbing their tiles, and they've gone and installed it. Is this a bullshit idea and should I get them to remove it?
Dry ridge is ok as long as they have used the roll-out breather membrane and SS fixings etc.
 
OP,
In my post #5, I asked you a few questions - perhaps you would like to answer them?
 
The thing is with bonding gutters is that the prep work must be spot on, and that hidden detailing can take a little time
No need for any of that if you use a roofer/builder with any experience and use the same tile....
 
Poster #10,
Why would you even need a bonding gutter if you can run straight through using the same tiles?
This thread is about using a bonding gutter - its called "Bonding gutter advice".
 
We're having it replaced with membrane + batterns and Redland 49s
What a shame

the roofer insisted on these
Maybe has a batch left over from the previous job where they overestimated; tidy if you can charge for the same thing twice

They recommend ridge tiles instead
Which is going to look absolutely gash

Probably. What would you do here?
Are you averse to overriding them and changing tile to what you wanted all along, fitting Rosemarys?

I realise you're a way down the process, but there is still time to return the tiles, fit more battens and make it a flush job.. There will be some discussions about cost but it's only money!

"Modern tiles are better for storms" eh? Old roof covering somehow didn't cut it for nigh on 100 years.. Hmm
 
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