Broken Radiator

[Wirral_guy]

I stupidly dropped a designer radiator as I was moving it and bent one of the fins slightly. It is not severe but enough to crack the enamel finish slightly at the joint.

Before fitting I tried a leak test (I filled her up and then blew as hard as I could to get pressure in) and there appears to be a tiny leak from the joint between the bar (where the valve fits) and the fin. It is very, very slight but still there.

Is there any way to repair this effectively? If not, it was an expensive slip as the rad cost £200+ so I am hoping there is a solution!

Thanks in advance for any thoughts. (advice on how to break it to the missus also welcomed )

Dave (a.k.a. prat!)

 

[gas4you]

How about a claim on your house insurance for a new one?

As for the wife, call her from a 'phone box to tell her

 

[Balenza]

Can you post the name of the rad or give a link ?.

 

[Wirral_guy]

Can you post the name of the rad or give a link ?.

It is this one from B&Q:

http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav/n...efview=lister&ts=1199124108415&isSearch=false


Sorry about the length of the link!!

 

[gas4you]

As this is B&Q then most of their products are damaged anyway, so I would take it back and ask them to swap it over.

 

[Wirral_guy]

Not really an option as we bought it about 3 months ago but have only now got around to fitting it.

More annoying - it's gone down in price so we should have waited to buy anyway!

 

[Balenza]

Its most likely mild steel and has fractured slightly at a weld.
A good cleaning at this spot and a mig welder should cure the problem.

 

[Wirral_guy]

Its most likely mild steel and has fractured slightly at a weld.
A good cleaning at this spot and a mig welder should cure the problem.

This sounds like it will then need re-coating - is this easy too?

Thanks

 

[Richard C]

Its most likely mild steel and has fractured slightly at a weld.
A good cleaning at this spot and a mig welder should cure the problem.

This sounds like it will then need re-coating - is this easy too?

Thanks

To MIG it you will have to locally remove the powder coating; heat from the MIG will also damage more of the coating; if it's not in full view a bit of paint might do it but to strip, locally repair & re-powder coat will probably cost more than a new rad; I think youve buggered it! FYI, B&Q will replace without a reciept with no time limit as long as you still have the bar code; I've just taken some fittings back that I've had for around 15 months; but they will only give you a credit note.

 

[Nige F]

I think a return is the best bet .There is an Enormous amount of damage done by the clowns in the 7 ton vans nowadays You wouldn`t believe the amount of damaged stock the TRADE outlets palm us off with

 

[Diyisfun]

I think a return is the best bet .There is an Enormous amount of damage done by the clowns in the 7 ton vans nowadays You wouldn`t believe the amount of damaged stock the TRADE outlets palm us off with

I would do as above, as the girl on the returns desk, will be like a machine, especialy if you say you want another one & not a refund.

 

[Balenza]

Wirral guy wrote

This sounds like it will then need re-coating - is this easy too?

Yep. dead easy.
Most good motor factor supply shops will supply 2 pack enamel in small aerosols. You can purchase the primer and finished coat. If you know the RAL number this would be beneficial but if not just take the rad to them and they will mix and match your colour easily.
Cost will be about a tenner.

Regards heat damage this will be minimal in the hands of a skilled operative. Cooling rags should be used and the rad well protected from splatter. Some anti splatter spray could be used locally at the repair area.
The entire rad should be well wrapped and protected against further damage with only the section needing the repair being exposed.

If you do not have the necessary skills and equipment to carry this out then use someone who has and do the preparation work yourself.
Bear in mind to properly clean the powder coating it will need to be burnt off using a high temperature torch.
An Oxy/acetylene torch would be good with a No 13 tip fitted and then electric high powered wire brushing. Cooling rags should be used here again immiediately after the torch is removed.

The metal will now be exposed fully and shining and the fracture should now be visible. Now a small angle grinder is used (space permitting) to abrade a slight indentation into the fracture in preparation for the filler metal of the weld.


An arc/ stick welder should also be successful if used properly for this repair.
The Oxy/acetylene torch is another method and either brazed, mild steel infill rod used or silver solder would also work but more heat damage will occur.

 

[Wirral_guy]

Thanks Balenza - a very comprehensive reply. Will try and find someone who can do it.

Dave

 

[mark.neale]

[[

quote]
If you do not have the necessary skills and equipment to carry this out then use someone who has and do the preparation work yourself.
Bear in mind to properly clean the powder coating it will need to be burnt off using a high temperature torch.
An Oxy/acetylene torch area.
The entire rad should be well wrapped and protected against further damage with only the section needing tYep. dead easy.
Most good motor factor supply shops will supply 2 pack enamel in small aerosols. You can purchase the primer and finished coat. If you know the RAL number this would be beneficial but if not just take the rad to them and they will mix and match your colour easily.
Cost will be about a tenner.

Regards heat damage this will be minimal in the hands of a skilled operative. Cooling rags should be used and the rad well protected from splatter. Some anti splatter spray could be used locally at the repair he repair being exposed.

would be good with a No 13 tip fitted and then electric high powered wire brushing. Cooling rags should be used here again immiediately after the torch is removed.

The metal will now be exposed fully and shining and the fracture should now be visible. Now a small angle grinder is used (space permitting) to abrade a slight indentation into the fracture in preparation for the filler metal of the weld.


An arc/ stick welder should also be successful if used properly for this repair.
The Oxy/acetylene torch is another method and either brazed, mild steel infill rod used or silver solder would also work but more heat damage will occur.

[/quote][/quote]

I think that's a take it back to B&Queue then!!!!

 

[Agile]

Is there any way to repair this effectively? If not, it was an expensive slip as the rad cost £200+ so I am hoping there is a solution!

Thanks in advance for any thoughts. (advice on how to break it to the missus also welcomed )

Dave (a.k.a. prat!)

I dont think you need to tell your wife how to break it! You just need to take it back to B&Q and get it replaced!

I have a customer who works at B&Q. I was going there tomorrow but she called me today to say dont come because she is too disorganised at home. And she has no hot water at all. Thats a pity as I was looking forward to seeing her again as she is quite cuddly. Thats if you like a size 18-20.

Tony