Built in cupboard - frame or wall fixings?

frame or wall?

  • frame

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • wall

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • A different approach entirely

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    0
  • Poll closed .
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Hello

Looking to make my own built in cupboards. The idea is for there to be two long doors with rattan in between frames and some wood to cover the side protrusion from the wall (depth of alcove is not enough for hangers and we prefer a sideways rail).

My two options are:
A. build a frame and mount the rail and shelves on that and slot in with fixings to the wall in a few strategic places.
B. Affix directly to the wall and have rail and shelves attached to wall.

I can see advantages to both but ultimately wanted to put it out there for your opinion to see if anyone had some insight that I do not.

Lastly, how to negotiate the skirting board? I guess it is dependent on which option you take above and which option you take above is somewhat dependent on the skirt so I guess it is all wrapped up in the above question.

Anyway, love to hear what you think?

Regards
 

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i have built a lot of wardrobes in the past and built into rooms and alcoves ( i say a lot - 7 full wardrobes , in fact - 3 in my last 3 bed house and then 4 in a 4 bed houses back in the early 80's and then again the late 80's ) 2 of these where in alcoves - and 1 across a chimney breast

i built everything in , and because of depth - i had a section front to back

if you are going for the frame, you may possible find something like IKEA may work - depends on width of alcove - what is the width - and probably cheaper than the material to make - at least that what i have found recently , and doing a big utility room at the moment and IKEA worked out much much cheaper then the MDF and doors to make myself
 
i have built a lot of wardrobes in the past and built into rooms and alcoves ( i say a lot - 7 full wardrobes , in fact - 3 in my last 3 bed house and then 4 in a 4 bed houses back in the early 80's and then again the late 80's ) 2 of these where in alcoves - and 1 across a chimney breast

i built everything in , and because of depth - i had a section front to back

if you are going for the frame, you may possible find something like IKEA may work - depends on width of alcove - what is the width - and probably cheaper than the material to make - at least that what i have found recently , and doing a big utility room at the moment and IKEA worked out much much cheaper then the MDF and doors to make myself

Hello ETAF, thanks for your response.

This is a very interesting take but to be honest I would like to avoid MDF and materials like that as they are not as nice to look at and are known to off-gas/be toxic. As this is a bedroom I would prefer to use pine and I also would like the challenge of building it myself.

the Alcove itself is 110cm x 38cm but we would be looking at a depth of 50cm so 12cm protruding.
 
i used used faced ply wood and also some thinply , when I wallpapered one lot to make it all look like built into the wall and used architravie around some interior doors - didnt make any then with MDF as the plywood was really cheap - Infact even the interior doors where really cheap in the 80's

i have used MDF on bungalow - BUT not for bedroom cupbards - a window box all painted and MRMDF wardrobe thing in the conservatory - i think that is under projects here - toilet units

just have a play with some of the pricing from a local timber merchants

the Alcove itself is 110cm x 38cm but we would be looking at a depth of 50cm so 12cm protruding.
yep, I did that on one , which was again wallpapered to match room and look like part of the room
used the part which went across the chimnly breast for long dresses and cocktail dresses for now ex wife - i think we got quite a few in as had 2 rails front to back - full hight

so its 110cm wide and 38 deep

your 12 cm - making 50cm , i assume that allows for a hanger and the thickness of the cloths - I found jackets on a hanger to be quite big - when i was working out suits etc ( i had a lot at the time ) - so need to look at internal measurement with doors closed
 
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i used used faced ply wood and also some thinply , when I wallpapered one lot to make it all look like built into the wall and used architravie around some interior doors - didnt make any then with MDF as the plywood was really cheap - Infact even the interior doors where really cheap in the 80's

i have used MDF on bungalow - BUT not for bedroom cupbards - a window box all painted and MRMDF wardrobe thing in the conservatory - i think that is under projects here - toilet units

just have a play with some of the pricing from a local timber merchants


yep, I did that on one , which was again wallpapered to match room and look like part of the room
used the part which went across the chimnly breast for long dresses and cocktail dresses for now ex wife - i think we got quite a few in as had 2 rails front to back - full hight

so its 110cm wide and 38 deep

your 12 cm - making 50cm , i assume that allows for a hanger and the thickness of the cloths - I found jackets on a hanger to be quite big - when i was working out suits etc ( i had a lot at the time ) - so need to look at internal measurement with doors closed
You're right about the depth, don't think 50cm will quite cut it so will have to have a rethink on that.

I think you;re right, need ot play around with what timber is available but would like to get an idea of the general principle.

Your designs sound fantastic so thanks for sharing your experience. I think I will do a bit more research, play around on the timber merchants and then have a go!
 
just some further food for thought - maybe

tobe honest when i did all those wardrobes back in the 80's MUCH younger it was all good fun and great experience - I remember working on 1 during the live aid concert and had the TV on rather loudly ...
with the full length interior doors - when you opened you had the space at the top to the ceiling where i put a shelf and worked out roughly where i wanted the shelf based on hanging hieght and shoes rack etc on the floor - which i left the carpet in on one too
I also fitted some full height IKEA pax wardrobes bak in the 90's in a room and as i see looking at doing that for a double sided utility room - just finished designing

you may want to look at some doors - IKEA , do 50cm doors -
just as a link to view the diufferent heights and widths available
you can mount those as overlay or internal - internal maynot be enough room - 3mm centre and each side - 9mm plus 2 doors 1000mm = 1009 - you have 1100 ? 91mm - maybe some 45mm finsihed materal on the wall redwood or just softwood -

50mm x 75 on the wall - finsih size is 45mm

45+45+9 = 99mm - may work - check measurements
and also are the walls upright and equal distance apart - unlikely !!!!!!!


of course on one side you are coming further out - so maybe a 50mm x ??? to fix on the wall and poke out ready for painting

i would take the skirtings OFF , or atleast maybe a slot in it for the material

I use a multitool to make a neat cut -

 
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When I used to work for a cabinet maker, all units in alcoves were basically an MDF box with side returns scribed to the walls and sat on adjustable legs. Top and sides of the box were 18mm mdf- the back panel was 9mm. There are concerns about the use of Formaldehyde in the MDF though.

We scribed rather than cutting way sections of skirting, the primary reason being that if the customer eventually removed the unit, the skirting would still be intact. On the odd occasion that we had to remove skirtings, dado rails, or picture rails, we left them under the unit so that they could be reinstated.
 
just some further food for thought - maybe

tobe honest when i did all those wardrobes back in the 80's MUCH younger it was all good fun and great experience - I remember working on 1 during the live aid concert and had the TV on rather loudly ...
with the full length interior doors - when you opened you had the space at the top to the ceiling where i put a shelf and worked out roughly where i wanted the shelf based on hanging hieght and shoes rack etc on the floor - which i left the carpet in on one too
I also fitted some full height IKEA pax wardrobes bak in the 90's in a room and as i see looking at doing that for a double sided utility room - just finished designing

you may want to look at some doors - IKEA , do 50cm doors -
just as a link to view the diufferent heights and widths available
you can mount those as overlay or internal - internal maynot be enough room - 3mm centre and each side - 9mm plus 2 doors 1000mm = 1009 - you have 1100 ? 91mm - maybe some 45mm finsihed materal on the wall redwood or just softwood -

50mm x 75 on the wall - finsih size is 45mm

45+45+9 = 99mm - may work - check measurements
and also are the walls upright and equal distance apart - unlikely !!!!!!!


of course on one side you are coming further out - so maybe a 50mm x ??? to fix on the wall and poke out ready for painting

i would take the skirtings OFF , or atleast maybe a slot in it for the material

I use a multitool to make a neat cut -


Thanks for all your input on this, very helpful indeed.

I like the sound of the concert blaring out whilst you built some of these wardrobes and I may well try and emulate somewhat, perhaps with Glastonbury on instead!

Good tip on the walls, they are likely not entirely plumb so will need to factor that in for sure.

I was wondering about removing the skirting rather than scribing but didn't know how difficult it would be, now perhaps with the multi-tool you mention I will be able to manage it without making too much of a mess!

You've been so generous with your advice, thanks so much,.
 
Thanks, that is an appealing option but as opps says there is a bit of a worry about MDF and Formaldehyde.

They do look great though so a top job and good for inspiration for myself.
Your worries over mdf safety are unfounded .Your skirtings could be mdf , it’s also found in plywood .
 

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