Burying pipes in brick wall

[Bodget]

Hi Guys,

I'm just about to embark on fitting a new wall mounted sink and would like to hide the supply pipework by burying it in the wall behind the sink.

Are there any regs. that cover this?
Can I simply bury copper pipe in the wall and plaster over it?
Can I use plastic pipe?
The sink has a single mixer which is supplied with small bore copper tails that sleeve the pipe upto 15mm if anyone has done this before what is the neatest way of doing this?

TIA

 

[Bahco]

Regs are that all piping should be accessible so plastering over is not really a good option although I have seen many jobs where this is the case The plastering is prone to cracking due to thermal expansion of hot pipes. If it is a sink supply why not run piping along the wall as it will be hidden anyway
To connect your tails use flexible connectors that have 15 mm compression on both ends one which attaches to the tails, the other end to supply pipe

 

[Bodget]

Hi Bacho,

Thanks for the response.

I didn't make it clear but the sink in question is a wall mounted bathroom sink which doesn't have a pedestal, hence my desire to hide the supply pipework in the wall, otherwise you will be able to see the hot and cold runs up the wall from the floor.

If you need to leave the pipes accessable does that mean that my only option is to make a hardboard cover for the pipework chase and then tile over it and fix it with screws?

And I thought this was going to be so simple

 

[Bahco]

Thats what I did in my own property and what I would advise but it is down to you if you wish to plaster over pipes as many people do.

 

[sammoseley]

plaster or sand+cement will corode copper pipe eventually so wrap it in insulating tape, i have seen this done many times, plastic pipe would also be ok but this may expand more when hot causing problems. also plastic fittings are bulkier remember . cheers sam

 

[JPC]

As metioned...i see pipes buried in plaster a lot. Wrap them in duct tape..lengthwise it just wraps round a 15 mm pipe.
Have the pipes coming out of the wall at 90 degress. cut them down so as to fit a flexi tap connector over them (the 15mm pipe) and all u'll see is a the chrome flexis and treat u'r self to a chrome botle trap..should look good !

 

[Bodget]

Many thanks for all the advice

I think I'm going to follow my usual bodget and scarper routine and bury it in the wall, and plaster over it (having wrapped it first!).

I have a 1930s semi so most of what's here doesn't comply to current regs anyway and if the pipe does leak in the future I'll only have myself to blame when I have to break it back out of the wall!

I've already invested in the chrome bottle trap so hopefully it'll look as good as JPC imagines!

 

[JPC]

two last thoughts...check it does not leak before u plaster!! and consider putting 22 mm pipe over the hot 15 mm (that is if poss ie they run straight) this will stop the 15 mm pipe expansion from cracking the plaster

 

[Bodget]

JPC,

1st point I had already thought off, infact my original plasterer let me down so its not being plastered for 4 weeks and although I could live without a bathroom for 4 weeks my missus will take exception to that!

I'll have to fit it all and then remove basin and loo when it gets plastered so all leaks will hopefully have shown up and been cured by then.

2nd point is inspired - I'd never have thought of that but you can rest assured I'll do it now. Should also cure any possibility of the plaster reacting with the 15mm pipe!

Thanks again

 

[GRACEFUL SAVAGE]

I would put plastic pipe in and only plastic pipe no fittings in wall.

From under floorboards bring pipe up into wall bend slightly at the top clip it up at 45 degree angle.
Put plastic pipe 22 mm over 15 mm pipe..e

 

[ChrisR]

Plastic overflow makes a good sleeve for 15mm.

If you want to make things rigid, bury a wallplate elbow in the wall. Then you have 1/2" female you can screw things into. Such as isolatng valves (the thread under the compression nut is 1/2" male) or tap flexies - use the male compression end, which leaves the tap connector end for a normal tap.

When I do it I use a diamond core drill to make a 2 1/2" cut intothe wall. Break the bits out and you get a flat bottom. You'd get a similar result with lots of equal-depth holes and a normal drill.