Hi,
She who must be obeyed finally gave permission to have a home bar/pub built in the garden, and rather than go the usual convert a shed route, I went with block and the idea that render would match some parts of the house. Decided on a narrow cavity wall (50mm cavity)
Anyway, I went away on hols and the friends I had helping me cracked on with the walls whilst I was away, geting to one course of blocks below lintel height. Unfortunately their build of the cavity wall is a bit lacking.
What has happened is they built both the inner and outer skin at the same time putting ties and insulation in as they went up - when they seated the blocks, the mortar on the inside of the cavity pushed out and has formed a bridge, on just about every course, full length of the walls (20m of wall in total). cross section of what Im left with below:
I dont want to fall out with the guys, as they have helped me out loads in the garden and round the house and are good friends, butsimilarly I dont really fancy the idea of taking down the entire inner skin and rebuilding.
My worry is that moisture will penetrate the outside, follow these bridges and appear on the inside (to be boarded and plastered). If not moisture, its multiple cold spots/lines.
So far my fix has been to get on a small scafold towwer and "dig" out the cavities with a metal rod long enough to reach the bottom and just knock through these bridges all the way along the wall, mashing up the kingspan as I go until I reach the bottom. This is proving very difficult and massively time consuming.
So, Im after opinion on whether Im being overly paranoid about this, or whether I can rectify this problem in other ways.
The render is going to be parex water/weatherproof stuff, and there is a damp proof course in place to prevent rising moisture reaching a bridge.
Im thinking that I could paint the entire walls with a bath full of ronseal or thompsons brick sealer before applying the render to minimise the chance of penetrating damp.
To avoid condensation issues due to cold spots/lines im thinking of fixing the boards using studwork fixed to the blocks with damp proof behind each stud and allowing this to breath into the roof anda breathable mebrane in the roof.
Any advice or suggestions greatly appreciated. Will my ideas work?
Many Thanks, Chris.
She who must be obeyed finally gave permission to have a home bar/pub built in the garden, and rather than go the usual convert a shed route, I went with block and the idea that render would match some parts of the house. Decided on a narrow cavity wall (50mm cavity)
Anyway, I went away on hols and the friends I had helping me cracked on with the walls whilst I was away, geting to one course of blocks below lintel height. Unfortunately their build of the cavity wall is a bit lacking.
What has happened is they built both the inner and outer skin at the same time putting ties and insulation in as they went up - when they seated the blocks, the mortar on the inside of the cavity pushed out and has formed a bridge, on just about every course, full length of the walls (20m of wall in total). cross section of what Im left with below:
I dont want to fall out with the guys, as they have helped me out loads in the garden and round the house and are good friends, butsimilarly I dont really fancy the idea of taking down the entire inner skin and rebuilding.
My worry is that moisture will penetrate the outside, follow these bridges and appear on the inside (to be boarded and plastered). If not moisture, its multiple cold spots/lines.
So far my fix has been to get on a small scafold towwer and "dig" out the cavities with a metal rod long enough to reach the bottom and just knock through these bridges all the way along the wall, mashing up the kingspan as I go until I reach the bottom. This is proving very difficult and massively time consuming.
So, Im after opinion on whether Im being overly paranoid about this, or whether I can rectify this problem in other ways.
The render is going to be parex water/weatherproof stuff, and there is a damp proof course in place to prevent rising moisture reaching a bridge.
Im thinking that I could paint the entire walls with a bath full of ronseal or thompsons brick sealer before applying the render to minimise the chance of penetrating damp.
To avoid condensation issues due to cold spots/lines im thinking of fixing the boards using studwork fixed to the blocks with damp proof behind each stud and allowing this to breath into the roof anda breathable mebrane in the roof.
Any advice or suggestions greatly appreciated. Will my ideas work?
Many Thanks, Chris.
