Ceiling hole!!

[connelsey]

I have the top floor flat in an old Victorian house, a ceiling crack which I have lived with quite happily for 20 years has finally made a breakthrough and left me with a hole approx. 20x20cm square. with cracks spreading out a further 50cm in different directions at a point where the pitch of the roof meets.

Rather than make an attempt to fill the hole, I am hoping to place a lowered ceiling cap over the hole and cracks. Is this a sensible solution and how do I set about locating the ceiling joists to attach my cap batons?

Thanks in advance

 

[2929twin]

Must be a local expression , never heard of a ceiling cap, but I bet the plaster boys tell you a different way.

 

[connelsey]

Thanks for your comments - by ceiling cap, all I meant was to forget about filling the hole but to place a lowered ceiling over the hole and make a feature of his element, like a bandage over a wound.

Make any sense?

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

Why not just repair the ceiling?

 

[connelsey]

Thanks for your comment.

As I will be doing the work myself and on a tight budget, my original plan would seem to be the easiest and cheapest option.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

There are few ways to go around this,
Do you know what materials are in the ceiling.
Plastered plasterboard or lath and plaster?
Usually cracks appear when boards sag and or foot traffic from above.

One method(quickest and cheapest) would be to screw the boards back tight scrim tape over the cracks and holes, fill the holes in and plaster finish the whole ceiling.

You could also consider over boarding the ceiling and then applying joint tapes and plastering.

If the ceiling is sagging and is uneven and can not be corrected, then the battening out method, could be considered.

Wood joist can be located by using a stud locator or drilling small pilot holes in ceiling, joist are usually something like 400mm apart.
Sometimes tapping the ceilings can assist in finding the joist. Where the hollow sound is usually means no joist, but when a dead sound is heard the chances are there is something beneath.

 

[connelsey]

This is a great reply - thanks very much.

1. I'm not sure about the building material used on my ceiling, but if it helps to identify it - it has a rather flaky skin and is slightly over 1 inch thick and muddy gray in colour. (the house is 140 years old, although converted into flats 25 years ago)

2. Can you explain your method one solution again, but with a mere layman in mind! - I'm not sure about the meanings of your terms.

Your piece about joist location is ace, I got this perfectly.

Cheers

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

If it was a plasteboard ceiling that had sagged, you could screw then back up tight, using dry-wall screws at a distance of about 150-200mm apart, into the joist above. Then where the cracks have appeared and any holes you could apply a self adhesive joint tape, fill any large holes and cracks.
Apply two coats of PVA solution (1 pva-4 water) first coat left to dry overnight and second coat allowed to go tacky.
The skim the whole ceiling with multi-finish, I use two coats.

But what you have described, sound like it could well be lath and plaster.
There will be laths of wood along the whole ceiling that has been lime and horse hair plastered, this was the traditional method they used back in the day, or when renovated, could have been base coated with either browning or bonding, depending on the surface being applied to then skimmed.
To rip this down is a really messy job, you would be best locating the joists and over boarding, using 12.5mm thickness plasterboards then joint tape and skim with board finish.

 

[connelsey]

Please have a look at my photo and give me your opinion on what you think my ceiling is made from? Forget about the odd colour scheme - I imagine I'm a caveman!

 

[roughcaster]

Looks like lath and plaster to me.

 

[JohnD]

to repair a L&P ceiling

if you can get access to the upper surface, e.g. in a loft

see //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=680603#680603

my post Mon Sep 03, 2007 9:51 pm

 

[garywales]

If the ceiling is sagging and is uneven and can not be corrected, then the battening out method, could be considered.

Cracking post could you explain the battening out method please

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Well it's a case of locating your ceiling joist again.
First fix the battens around the perimeter of the the ceiling, then a bit of planning will be need as you need to ensure that the the rest of the battens run at 400mm centres, from each other, starting your first measurement from the wall and not the centre of the batten along the perimeter.
It is best if the battens are fixed at right angles to the existing joists, so to insure a good fix and ease of fitting.
400mm centres, this will allow 2400mmx1200mm boards to fixed with the minimum of cuts and the 400mm distance will also help prevent the boards from sagging.
If the existing ceiling has sagged and the battens can not go up tight, packings may be needed to bring the ceiling to near level.
12.5mm thick plasterboards should be used to, this will also help prevent sagging, and the plasterboard joints should be staggered.
The battens used can vary in profile but something like 50x75mm is adequate.
Screw both the battens and the plasterboards, don't nail.

 

[garywales]

Thanks mate well described

 

[1john]

just to add to pbd;s post, if you have a very unstraight wall you can place your first batten 300mm from the edge, and this gives you 100mm to scribe the first row of boards in, if you get the first row of boards up and they are spot on straight then you will not get awkward gaps on later boards.