Ceiling rose removal for new light.

[600rob]

Hi, I had a look at the wiki page and didn't think I could see the diagram for what I'm looking for so I thought I'd ask here.

Right.

I've got two light fittings in a hallway. At one end of the hall is a 1 gang 2 way switch that switches both hall way lights on and off.

down the other end is a 2 gang 2 way switch. One of the switches controls the hallway lights. The other controls the lights and extractor fan in the adjacent bathroom just off the corridor.

I'm replacing both light fittings in the hall way. The first fitting located at the bathroom end was a simple change with there only being a single L N E in the old ceiling rose.

Im pretty sure i know what to do with The other fitting but wanted to double check what appears to be the switched live and and another live going into the
Same terminal. (See the red and black wires at the right side of the pic)

I'm using wago connectors as I'm doing a load of lights and these save messing about with screwdrivers whilst up a ladder.
Assuming I've connected all the other wires
Would I just connect these two wires together using a two way connector

cheers

View media item 77055

 

[winston1]

The black wire is the switched live and the red one is switched live to the other light.

Everything that is connected together now needs connecting together in the future.

 

[333rocky333]

I'm replacing both light fittings in the hall way.


Would I just connect these two wires together using a two way connector

Surely you would need a 3 port connecter, (1 for the new light brown plus two for the red and black)

A 3 port for the perm lives
A 4 port for the neutrals
A 5 port for the earths if the new fitting requires one
plus some earth sleeving

 

[600rob]

The black wire is the switched live and the red one is switched live to the other light.

Everything that is connected together now needs connecting together in the future.

Cool thanks for the explanation. I thought that mint be the case.

Just wanted to confirm.
Cheers

 

[600rob]

Surely you would need a 3 port connecter, (1 for the new light brown plus two for the red and black)

yes mate, I stand corrected. Is use one of these little connectors.

This is what I was referring to

http://www.screwfix.com/p/3-way-lighting-connector-224-series-pack-of-100/33918#

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Hi, I had a look at the wiki page and didn't think I could see the diagram for what I'm looking for so I thought I'd ask here.

You won't find a diagram in Wiki with what you actually have.

Right.
I've got two light fittings in a hallway. At one end of the hall is a 1 gang 2 way switch that switches both hall way lights on and off.

down the other end is a 2 gang 2 way switch. One of the switches controls the hallway lights. The other controls the lights and extractor fan in the adjacent bathroom just off the corridor.

I'm replacing both light fittings in the hall way. The first fitting located at the bathroom end was a simple change with there only being a single L N E in the old ceiling rose.

So bathroom light needs no explaining
As for the hallway lights, you have looped-in set up at ceiling rose, this means that both neutral and Line/live are looped-in at that location.
This would be the standard set up at the ceiling rose.

Untitled

• PrenticeBoyofDerry
• 7 May 2014
• 1

But as you have a second light switched from this you will have the addition of an extra switched live, neutral and CPC (AKA earth)
Which will be similar to this.

Untitled

• PrenticeBoyofDerry
• 19 Nov 2011
• 5

Indicated as supply cables on the above diagram(this would be at the ceiling rose terminals of the first light). The red (switch live), black (neutral) and green/yellow (CPC/earth), would be connected to the rose as bracketed above.

Which when put together will resemble what you have, in your picture
View media item 77055[/quote]

I would suggest sleeving the CPCs green and yellow and also identifying via sleeving which cores are the switched lives. Make a note of the the conductors and positions and mark up the cables, prior to disconnection.
And always prove via a two pole voltage indicator that the circuits you are working on are isolated.