Central heating system drained, now noisy pump.

[MoonMan2]

Just had my central heating system drained by a plumber. I got two radiators replaced. He then "filled" the system again and bled radaitors.

After he left I decided to try it out. After switching on heating system, 20mins later or so the pump next to the water tank in the cupboard started to make a clicking noise, like an football rattle. There was no heat in the radiators at all. I tried "bleeding" the pump with the big screw in the middle. It is boiling hot water that came out.

The hot water doesn't heat up either.

I had no noise with pump or trouble at all before today.

 

[seco services]

Are the pipes either side of the pump hot ?
sounds like somethings got into the pump impeller, ie blob of solder ect.
remove the centre screw is the pump turning ok ?

 

[MoonMan2]

Removed the centre screw, and turned what I presume is pump clockwise and anti clockwise a couple of turns.

The pipes are scalding hot on either side of the pump.

 

[Agile]

Just had my central heating system drained by a plumber. I got two radiators replaced. He then "filled" the system again and bled radaitors.

Seems pretty obvious that you need to call the plumber back!

Its probably just an airlock but he should know how to best sort it out.

 

[seco services]

what have you got a 3 port valve or 2x2 ports ?
is the pipe hot to the cylinder ?
is the pipe hot out of the cylinder ?
have you a bleed vent on the flow to the cylinder ?

 

[MoonMan2]

The pump I have is this

Untitled

• MoonMan2
• 28 Jun 2011
• 1

with the I, II or III setting on the side. It was always on III, so left it at that. I took the screw off while on, the motor was rotating very fast anticlockwise.

The pipe at the bottom of the pump is very hot, the pipe(pipe 1) coming out the top of the pump is very hot. Right up till it reaches that junction with the white thing. The pipe (pipe 2) coming towards U (eventually going down) from the white box is cooler, but becomes very hot when it goes down. I noticed that if I bleed the pump, the whole of pipe2 becomes very hot and I hear sounds of pressure in pipes.

The pipes that connect to the cylinder are not hot.

I don't know what a "bleed vent is on the flow to the cylinder" but have had a look and there doesn't seem to be anything to "let off steam" so to speak.

Yes, I have texted the plumber. He is coming back.

 

[gasafengineer]

What a mess , can't see any way to bleed air from that picture , might have to crack a few joints @ motor valve to release any air , why these pump valves are still installed is beyond me (leaking already) , absolute rubbish.

Fault lies with original installer before blame is shifted to 'new' plumber , he may well want to install an air bleed to pipework in picture , all @ an extra cost unfortunately.

Hope you get it sorted.

 

[stardanny]

there a air bleed valve behind motorised valve, on pipe to cylinder....

plumber left without checking system is working, hmm....

Dan

 

[MoonMan2]

plumber just left. There is an air bleed valve behind the motorised valve, it is cut off in the photo(pipe above motorised valve ends about 2cm after the photo and has a screw top). He spent over an hour bleeding that valve, the pump, the radiators over and over again until the radiators were all hot. He said it was simply air in the system and it would eventually work it's way out but he was forcing it manually.

One issue though, I did not get hot water unless it was the hot water only setting on the central heating control. The motorised valve them moved from "H to M to W" and it started to heat the water in the tank. The plumber is suspicious that the motorised valve may have a fault, but said I shouldn't jump to replacing it just yet and should wait for the system to settle a bit.