Change of direction of horizontal run of soil pipe

Joined
19 Apr 2010
Messages
43
Reaction score
1
Location
Avon
Country
United Kingdom
The title says it all really, how acceptable is a change of direction on a long horizontal run of 110mm pipe? I want to create an ensuite in a house I'm working on, but unfortunately it's going to involve getting the soil pipe to the stack at the back of the house. About the only way I can manage this would be to run the soil pipe between the joists for about 2m, then have a change of direction of about 30 degrees to run the remaining 3.7m to the stack. The gradient would be constant throughout the run.

In an ideal world I'd much prefer a straight run, but unless I build a false floor of about 220mm I can't achieve it, and I really don't want to lose that amount of head height.

As an alternative, but probably even less likely to be acceptable, would it be possible to run the first section as above (ie 2m, between the joists), then drop down with a 92° bend and then resume the near horizontal run with another 92° bend immediately (or a 92° swept T to provide a rodding point?). This would be much easier to route but I can't see it as being acceptable.

Building control will be involved anyway as there's a lot of other things need doing, but I'd rather have an idea of what's likely to be acceptable before I see them.
 
Sponsored Links
The first solution would certainly be more acceptable. Generally you'd need access for a bend >45 deg. So at 30 and <6m run you should be OK.
 
Option 1 sounds OK, provided the total run doesn't exceed 6.0m, which is the max permitted by building regs. You should aim for a fall of 44mm per metre.

Is there no possibility of digging in a new drain and constructing a new stack?
 
Many thanks for the speedy replies. I was at the house yesterday, and checked a couple of things. Firstly, the 3.7m is the distance to the back wall, not the angled length, so that is actually about another 500mm long (who knew trigonometry mattered), and I neglected to include the distance through the wall and into the stack the other side, which is about another 400mm, so the total run is actually about 6.6m. Are there any options at all for a run over 6m? I know an identical house in the street has recently (within the last 2 years) put a bathroom where I want the ensuite, and their soil stack is actually about another 3m further back and their toilet is further forward in the bathroom than I'm planning.
 
Sponsored Links
BCO might insist on an Air Admittance Valve at the top of the run. Or they might just ask, and you can answer forgetting about the added bits.

I've got away with more.
 
So it would be acceptable to have a run longer than 6m if I fit an AAV, or, I guess on the basis that an AAV might be insisted on, I could extend up through the roof and vent it? Neither would be a particular issue as work needs doing on the roof anyway, and probably even easier to fit an AAV. All references to maximum length of run is always just plain 6m, I've never seen something to suggest that a longer run is possible simply by fitting an AAV.
 
Put it this way. On a steady gradient you'd need to be pretty well constipated and/or disposing of large amounts of wipes/towels to be able to fill a 4" pipe so much that no air could flow freely within it. And that's flushing with a thimble of water each time.

Adding 10% to get 6.6m is just good tolerance ;)

The plain 6m rule is for horizontal unvented runs. You can have much longer runs underground the only difference being the need to keep a seal of water intact as the top of the run. But as above this should be easy.

Mine is as pictured below for underground downstairs. Run is around 3m to drain and nearest vent is 9m away. BCO paced it wrong so didn't insist on AAV but I don't have any issues at all.

View media item 45133(Ignore the chamber overlay)
 
You could always fit a macerator and then pump it wherever you like...














...no, don't, it's just wrong!

And on a serious note, you are supposed to be able to clear blockages at any change of direction, so as long as you can rod to the bend from both directions you should be in a better position. Just the rule of thumb is think about how you'd clear blockages from any point, and if it's not possible, change the design.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top