Changes to connect a 16A (hardwired) oven to 13A socket

[sgabello]

Hi there! I'm new to the forum and I hope to find some help here

I've recently bought and moved into a new flat (1 bed) and found that the oven isn't working correctly. After checking the costs for repairing it, I decided it would just easier to get a new one.
The current one is a SMEG SE375MFX. It has a standard 13A wall plug.

It was connected to a standard single wall socket with a separate 13A fuse switch over the worktop. I checked and apparently I have two power lines departing from the consumer unit: one specific for the kitchen, one for all the other sockets in the flat.
So... All the appliances in the kitchen (fridge, oven, washing machine, dishwasher) share a single power line and the MCB is a Wylex NSB32.

Now... the new oven doesn't have a plug and requires to be hardwired because it's 3,65Kw.
The shop offers an installation service for a fixed price. I called and explained my concerns and they reassured me that the electrician would not leave the house until the job is done.
However I have a feeling that the lady at the phone didn't understand the problem.
I'm worried that I will order the oven, get it delivered... and then the electrician would say that it can't be installed without rewiring and adding a new line.

So... given all the informations above, what does it need to be done in order to connect the oven? Does it need a separate line?

Many thanks,
Andrea

 

[bernardgreen]

If this is a rented flat and the oven was one of the listed white goods / appliances that were there when you saw the flat then it is up to the landlord to replace the oven with one in full working order or arrange repair.

A new oven should be equivalent to the one there in the flat when you signed the contract.

 

[sgabello]

Nope... sorry... I should have been more specific... It's my very first own flat.
If I was renting... I would have called the landlord as you said

 

[ban-all-sheds]

If this is a rented flat

I've recently bought and moved into a new flat

 

[skotl]

Welcome to the forum!

I think your belief that the person on the end of the fine doesn't understand what is involved is correct. I can't see the electrician being too impressed at having to chase (cut) new cable into the wall, possibly add a new MCB (circuit breaker), possibly even replace your consumer unit, all for the £50 the shop is paying him.

So you should get an electrician in first and have them assess what is required and run a 16A (or higher) feed to where the oven is going to go.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Now... the new oven doesn't have a plug and requires to be hardwired because it's 3,65Kw.

That's right - too big for a plug, and too big to be hardwired to an FCU.

However I have a feeling that the lady at the phone didn't understand the problem.

She didn't.

I'm worried that I will order the oven, get it delivered... and then the electrician would say that it can't be installed without rewiring and adding a new line.

He will, and he'd be correct.

So... given all the informations above, what does it need to be done in order to connect the oven? Does it need a separate line?

Yes, it does.

You've bought an oven from a maker who is primarily focused on the continental Europe market where they have 16A sockets, and 16A circuits.

We have neither - our circuits are rated higher than sockets and plugs and the flexes on those, and we use fused plugs and fused connection units to make the whole thing safe. Works fine until you need to connect a 16A appliance.

If you don't have a cooker circuit, you'll need one put in to allow this oven to be connected. I would strongly advise asking the electrician to install a 32A capable one, in case you later add an electric hob, or an integrated cooker, but put it on a 16A breaker for now.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I can't see the electrician being too impressed at having to chase (cut) new cable into the wall, possibly add a new MCB (circuit breaker), possibly even replace your consumer unit, all for the £50 the shop is paying him.

He'll be so unimpressed that he simply won't do any of those things.

I'm pretty sure that somewhere in the small print from the retailer there will be a clause about a suitable supply being available within 1 or 2m of the oven.

 

[AndyPRK]

I assume you don't have an MCB in your consumer unit marked "cooker".

It sounds like you need a new cable running between the cooker and consumer unit? Are they close? an easy run?

To be honest I would try and exchange the cooker for a lower powered model with plug

 

[sgabello]

Thank you everyone of your input! Thankfully I have yet to order the oven...

@skoti: would an electrician come over just to asses the work?

@ban-all-sheds: unfortunately I can't find any good brand who does 13A ovens. So far I think I've seen only smeg and indesit. I was hoping to get something of better quality from Bosh/Siemens/Neff/Samsung to be honest. I will also check the small print as you suggested

@AndyPRK: Nope... I don't have it. As explained in my post all the appliances in the kitchen are under a Wylec NSB32 MCB. Unfortunately I don't think that running a cable is feasible... it should run under the floor in the living/kitchen area. This is actually something that I can't get used to the UK way to wire house: All those cable hanging free between joists and studs are so messy I don't understand why no one here use flexible tubes with multi-filament flexible electrical cables when wiring a house. It would make so easy to add/remove/change cables



Anyway... from your comments I understand that I might be better to hold with the purchase...

 

[slup]

There are plenty of ovens out there that can be connected to a 13A supply - you just need to do some research.

Lots of them say 16A though when they're not. This is because (as mentioned above), 16A is a standard circuit size on the continent.

For example almost all Bosch (and Neff/Siemens etc) state 'Fuse Rating 16A', but many of them are well under 3kW which is fine for connection to a 13A FCU.

Just out of interest, exactly what model have you bought?

 

[sgabello]

I haven't yet... but, for example, I was interested in these two:

http://ao.com/product/BT621VDST-Sam...ectric-Single-Oven-Stainless-Steel-15471.aspx

http://ao.com/product/HBG33B550B-Bosch-Exxcel-Electric-Single-Oven-Stainless-Steel-24934.aspx

 

[ban-all-sheds]

@skoti: would an electrician come over just to asses the work?

Yes.

@ban-all-sheds: unfortunately I can't find any good brand who does 13A ovens. So far I think I've seen only smeg and indesit. I was hoping to get something of better quality from Bosh/Siemens/Neff/Samsung to be honest.

Don't blame you. Problem is that for 90% of their market 16A appliances can just be plugged in.

Unfortunately I don't think that running a cable is feasible... it should run under the floor in the living/kitchen area.

Worth getting an electrician to take a look - he might be able to come up with a solution. Get an experienced one.

If you really cannot have a new circuit installed then you won't be able to have that oven, unfortunately.

This is actually something that I can't get used to the UK way to wire house: All those cable hanging free between joists and studs are so messy I don't understand why no one here use flexible tubes with multi-filament flexible electrical cables when wiring a house.

All sorts of reasons, mostly based on tradition.

The tradition until fairly recently (ignoring wattle & daub), for even cheap housing to have solid walls, so cables are fixed to them and then plastered over.

The tradition of doing things the way they've always been done.

Also, gaine préfilée is more expensive, much more bulky for electricians to carry in their van, needs bigger holes in joists...

It would make so easy to add/remove/change cables

Don't see how in your case it would help - you don't have a circuit where you need to change cables, you need a whole new one.

 

[skotl]

I haven't yet... but, for example, I was interested in these two:

http://ao.com/product/BT621VDST-Sam...ectric-Single-Oven-Stainless-Steel-15471.aspx

http://ao.com/product/HBG33B550B-Bo...ingle-Oven-Stainless-Steel-24934.aspx[/QUOTE]

Well, you're absolutely correct that both of these expect a 16A feed to pull the 3.6/3.5Kw they'd be looking for.

There are defo ovens available that are under 3Kw (13A) so your choices are to shop around, or get an electrician in.

To answer your other question of me; yes, an electrician would expect to pop round, have a chat and give you a quote for any work. Ideally, get three to come in so you have some comparisons.

 

[JohnW2]

Well, you're absolutely correct that both of these expect a 16A feed to pull the 3.6/3.5Kw they'd be looking for.

Do you, or does anyone, feel that one could legitimately invoke the concept of diversity here? If so, 3.6kW would represent an after-diversity current of appreciably under 13A.

Kind Regards, John

 

[EFLImpudence]

According to the specs for the Samsung there are:
http://www.samsung.com/ie/consumer/home-appliances/oven/electric-oven/BT621VDST/XEU

Upper oven 1200W
Lower oven 1220W
Upper grill 1600/1100W
Lower grill 1100W

So, it would depend on what can be used at the same time.

This is the reply to someone asking "What is the amperage?"
http://ao.com/product/BT621VDST-Sam...ectric-Single-Oven-Stainless-Steel-15471.aspx
Thank you for asking this question I know there are many other customers out there who will be very glad you have brought this up as working out what components you need for installation can be confusing.
For safety reasons the Samsung BT621VDST oven must be hardwired in by a qualified electrician as it requires a 32amp and a fused spur.
I do hope this oven ticks all your boxes, if not let me know and I will do some research to help you find the right model for you.

So, who knows?