Changing taps on bath

[diycooper]

I need to change some taps on a bath. The system is a system boiler. I have not checked the stop cock on the hot from the cylinder yet to assume its fully isolating water.

I have attached a picture of the pipework under the bath.

What is best way to go about changing taps, its in a very tight space.

I was think of cutting the copper pipe then attaching one of these in link to the pipe. This was if the stop cock is passing water I can isolate then have time to attach to tap.

There is currently no isolation valves under bath.

http://www.jtmplumbing.co.uk/john-g...+listing+ads&gclid=CJ6K9O3mnNMCFYU-Gwod0GUI2A

 

[Diyisfun]

I'm DIYer, but with a basin spanner you should be able to get at that nut. Why put another connection that may cause problems.
I would have a go at it. Turn boiler off & main water supply off.

 

[diycooper]

I'm DIYer, but with a basin spanner you should be able to get at that nut. Why put another connection that may cause problems.
I would have a go at it. Turn boiler off & main water supply off.

If I turn off mains supply and boiler can water still not come out cylinder ?

Im not to up on system boiler . There a stop cock by top of cylinder but its old type and I know these sometimes do not shut off completely.

Also I believe the thread on taps is different lengths to the pipe may need altering, there no movement in it.

 

[oldbuffer]

You'll have to find out how to shut off hot and cold whatever you do. Likely to be a gate valve (red, circular disc handle) on the pipe from the cold water storage cistern (CWSC) (loft) to base of hot water cylinder. Turn it off. If not fully off, open downstairs hot tap to let water out there rather than at bath. Cold may require you to drain whole CWSC via bath and other tank fed taps when main stop valve has been turned off.

Slacken nuts connecting pipes to bath taps, then slacken nuts (back nuts) securing taps to bath. Pulling up taps should give you enough slack to fully undo connecting nuts, then fully remove back nuts and remove taps. Same process in reverse to fit new taps. You may have to buy and use tap extenders if the new shanks are too short, but you'd be surprised how often there's enough slack in the pipes to cope. Fit taps, put back nuts on but leave loose, do up tap connectors, then tighten back nuts. If new back nuts are plastic, replace with brass if you can. You'll probably get away with re-using those white plastic "top hat" washers.

 

[diycooper]

You'll have to find out how to shut off hot and cold whatever you do. Likely to be a gate valve (red, circular disc handle) on the pipe from the cold water storage cistern (CWSC) (loft) to base of hot water cylinder. Turn it off. If not fully off, open downstairs hot tap to let water out there rather than at bath. Cold may require you to drain whole CWSC via bath and other tank fed taps when main stop valve has been turned off.

Slacken nuts connecting pipes to bath taps, then slacken nuts (back nuts) securing taps to bath. Pulling up taps should give you enough slack to fully undo connecting nuts, then fully remove back nuts and remove taps. Same process in reverse to fit new taps. You may have to buy and use tap extenders if the new shanks are too short, but you'd be surprised how often there's enough slack in the pipes to cope. Fit taps, put back nuts on but leave loose, do up tap connectors, then tighten back nuts. If new back nuts are plastic, replace with brass if you can. You'll probably get away with re-using those white plastic "top hat" washers.

Thanks, I have a box spanner I take it this is what I use to remove back nut. I have done a few taps but I done a set last time and my box spanner did not fit the taps which was a first. Is there different size box spanner. Just thinking this time if it doesnt fit I wont have enough space to get a adjustable in the back tap ?

 

[Bosswhite]

Basin Wrench and Tap Nut Spanner all for under a tenner should sort your plumbing problems out.

 

[amfisted]

For copper piping I'd use these: http://www.screwfix.com/p/flexible-tap-connector-with-valve-22mm-x-mm-x-300mm/6694g.

They have a compression fitting at one end and a female screw at the other with rubber washer (wrap a couple of turns of PTFE tape round the male screw thread on the tap tail for a watertight connection). You'll still need the tools as recommended by Bosswhite above.

If you need to work on/ replace the taps in the future, you can simply turn the supply off to each tap rather than fiddling about with gate valves in the loft.

I used a freezing kit when replacing a hot tap because I couldn't work out how to shut off the hot supply, but the inexpensive DIY kit is a "one use" solution and only gives you a very short time to complete the job before the ice plug starts to melt.

 

[diycooper]

For copper piping I'd use these: http://www.screwfix.com/p/flexible-tap-connector-with-valve-22mm-x-mm-x-300mm/6694g.

They have a compression fitting at one end and a female screw at the other with rubber washer (wrap a couple of turns of PTFE tape round the male screw thread on the tap tail for a watertight connection). You'll still need the tools as recommended by Bosswhite above.

If you need to work on/ replace the taps in the future, you can simply turn the supply off to each tap rather than fiddling about with gate valves in the loft.

I used a freezing kit when replacing a hot tap because I couldn't work out how to shut off the hot supply, but the inexpensive DIY kit is a "one use" solution and only gives you a very short time to complete the job before the ice plug starts to melt.

Thanks that's what I ordered last night but ordered the speedfit version. Just push on to feed then tighten with basin wrench. I have them two tools so feel confident now. Thank You

 

[amfisted]

I've never actually used the speedfit, which was why I mentioned the other tap connectors.

Good luck with the job. ;0)