Undercover,
Would you therefore have an approx cost of getting this fixed?
Either via replaced valves or a careful clean as mentioned above.
Best
S
chateauroux boiler lock out
- Thread starter Stephen19
- Start date
Undercover,
Would you therefore have an approx cost of getting this fixed?
Either via replaced valves or a careful clean as mentioned above.
Best
S
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Each time ive repaired them by taking the solenoids apart and cleaning them, rather than buying a new gas valve (why kick a person when they are down, after all they've got a Chaffoteaux! 
)
The cost was £70.
)The cost was £70.
Each time ive repaired them by taking the solenoids apart and cleaning them, rather than buying a new gas valve (why kick a person when they are down, after all they've got a Chaffoteaux!
The cost was £70.
Thank you Undercover, sounds fine to me, wish you were in NW London!
Will get it done this week.
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Whats the model?
The pcb's are also prone to fail on these ifi ts the SE. Think it's the relays on the board which fails giving signs of a failed gas valve.
If so then i think a single led (number 60 on temp lighting) will usually(but not always) light up along with the red lock out led.
If it's an intermittent fault they can be a right pain to identify as normally as soon as you take the case off they work fine untill your out the door again!
Sam
The pcb's are also prone to fail on these ifi ts the SE. Think it's the relays on the board which fails giving signs of a failed gas valve.
If so then i think a single led (number 60 on temp lighting) will usually(but not always) light up along with the red lock out led.
If it's an intermittent fault they can be a right pain to identify as normally as soon as you take the case off they work fine untill your out the door again!
Sam
Also if it is a britony (still waiting to find out with bated breath) I have a spare pair of boards which I received on a duplicate order....just in case.
Its a C&M MX2 24 FF.
Had it looked at last night and the results, so far are interesting and I think quite good news.
The Thermister Temp Sensors are playing up. When removed it all worked fine and no cut out. It was a 70 & 80 light up (the two lights to far right side) meaning 'no flame' as a cause.
I am not knowledgeable on this but could see how the flame dwindled, got lumpy at idling speed and then kept clicking to re-light before cutting out with the sensors connected. This was despite temp actually being low and flame needing to be high. With sensors removed it all ran well. Cheap parts I believe and easy to access and fit.
Also, the engineer did not know about the valves being 'removeable and cleanable' as mentioned a few times as q good cure. They are in a fixed unit which I could see, and the whole part would need replacing it seems. Now, he is an honest man I have known for a good while and fully trained (Corgi) before some of you mention his credentials, first rate but , in his own words, he is not fully conversant with the C&M. But by trial and error we found the fault, we think and hope! Part numbber 990686 on C&M list.
He does not seem very experienced if he has not encountered the sticking gas valves on this model.
Whilst one cannot criticise if he will only replace the whole unit, particularly as its quite cheap, it delays the fix.
However, in a practical situation, unless you had a spare with you then cleaning will get it going again immediately and in my experience carries on working satisfactorily for years afterwards.
Tony
Whilst one cannot criticise if he will only replace the whole unit, particularly as its quite cheap, it delays the fix.
However, in a practical situation, unless you had a spare with you then cleaning will get it going again immediately and in my experience carries on working satisfactorily for years afterwards.
Tony
Just to clarify then Tony, the valve unit can be unscrewed or pulled open in some obvious way quite easily? And then you can clean all or one part inside? Would it be obvious which area needs a clean? Thanks again.
S
Oh no, no , no way would I ever consider doing anyrthing gas or electric! I am the Landlord and have legal obligations let alone moral ones.
I am wanting to learn from this forum and to be abl eto advise my guy who did not seem aware of the possibility of cleaning the unit, not having worked on this model. I relayed some of the comments here to him.
I am still confused though. There is one valve unit in a container box. This contains 3 solenoids, yes? Inside there must be the 3 solenoids with two screws to each to get loose and then you could clean.
Anyhow, this is not the problem here, its the thermistor temp sensor , flow and return parts.
You say that but its not what I would expect from what you have described!
i still think your fiddling with the sensors is fooling the boiler into working with both solenoids on and thus masking the true fault which seems to be a sticking solenoid !
A competent engineer might power the solenoids independently and see if they work reliably. Or might disconnect each one in turn and see if both are working.
Or measure the burner pressure which will indicate which solenoids are open!
So many ways to test the gas valve! Which did your honest CORGI do?
Tony
what`s the one with no electrical connections .......circa 1977
fitted @ a M8`s house and it`s still going strong AND he reckons parts are available (Sussex)Yes, you could be right, it could be a valve problem still. But at the moment it looks, according to the pro who has investigated, to be the sensor not working correctly. So we are looking at a cheap easy fix first. If that isnt it, then we shall soon see! So you may be right, or you may be wrong.
Oh, he did a pressure test with an electrical device and rubber hose attachment?
Not sure what you mean by your 'honest CORGI' nametag regarding my friend, so cant comment on that further.
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