Choice of electrical connections to appliances

[dodgem]

Hi,

Just a question about what sockets I need to connect a couple of appliances into my new kitchen.

I am providing my electrician with the faceplates for all of the new electrics in my house, so trying to figure out what I need to buy...

In the kitchen I have a boiler which has a cable and plug connection - so I'm not sure if the plug should be removed so it can be connected to a fused spur.

I also have a cooker hood - which is positioned inside a chimney breast and the cable needs to pass through the brick - to then be plugged into a wall outside the chimney breast. I'm not sure if it has a plug (as its still boxed), but what would be the best way to connect it? Plug or fused spur?

I would like it all to comply with regulations.
Any advice much appreciated.

 

[pjcomp]

Don't think you'll find any specific regs about these particular connections. electrically there's nothing wrong with a plug and socket for a boiler, but for some reason the gas people always like a fixed conenction, ie a switched fused spur. Same for the extractor, but if you're going through a wall then I'd go for a switched used spur as the neater end result - feed into the back of the switch, no need for trailing wires.

But if you've got a sparky on the job, why not get a list of requirements from him? He's got to be hapy with what he's fitting and signing off.

PJ

 

[ban-all-sheds]

And not only let him specify, let him supply them too, as he will be able to buy them for less than you will, so it will be cheaper.

 

[bernardgreen]

as he will be able to buy them for less than you will, so it will be cheaper.

It will not be cheaper if he adds a large mark up on the price as some will do.

and the cable needs to pass through the brick - to then be plugged into a wall outside the chimney breast.

The problem with that is when the unit needs to be removed for service or cleaning the plug has to be removed and then re-fitted if the unit requires power while being serviced. Then the plug has to be removed to put the cable through the wall and then re fitted.

If possible put a socket inside the chimney stack. Or fit a snatch type cable connector such as http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BG452.html and keep a test lead with the same socketand 13 amp plug ( or an extension lead with those connectors at each end ) so the unit can be powered when not fitted in the chimney

 

[ban-all-sheds]

It will not be cheaper if he adds a large mark up on the price as some will do.

Presumably his bottom line price was competitive, i.e. the total amount he makes from markup and labour rates is OK.

So if he makes his money from a mix of markup and labour, and you deny him the former, will he:

a) Put up with that and accept a struggle to feed his family and pay his bills

or

b) Simply add it onto his labour costs, thus, in effect, making you pay the markup on top of a higher parts price

?

 

[bernardgreen]

A local "electrician" ( con man being a better description ) was adding a 400% mark up on the items he supplied to a couple and charging a high rate per hour for the time on site. Some of that time was drinking the free tea the couple provided. In this case he provided a detailed invoice expecting them to simply accept it. They didn't and he had to refund a significant amount of the mark up.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

It's really incredibly simple.

The total price someone quotes is what you will be paying him, and you choose him on the basis of his price and other factors when compared to the others.

How the price is arrived at is of no consequence. If £500 for a job which uses £100 worth of materials is charged at £150 for materials and £350 for labour or £499 for materials and £1 for labour it's still a £500 job.