Cistern Inlet Shank Issue

[Ryan79]

Hi

I need some advice.

I've just replaced my current Torbeck Adjustable Height bottom Fill Valve as water was coming all out the back of it when filling and also kept leaking very small drips when filled but enough to set of my water pump. I've had to replace it with a like for like but it still does not cure the issue even though I've inserted the HP restrictor.

I live in a 1 floor flat so all my water is kept is a huge storage tank and then is feed through a pump that operates at 2.5BAR

Ideally i'd like to use a fluidmaster instead but due to the inlet pipe being fixed I can only replace with an inlet that has a 46mm shank and AFAIK fluidmasters have at least 50mm shanks.

Could i place an extra 1 or 2 rubber washers under the base of the valve (inside the cistern) in order to reduce the length of the shank.

As you can see from the photo any adjustments to the inlet pipe or swapping over to flexi hoses is a non-starter.

Help

 

[terryplumb]

if you have fitted a brand new valve ,and still have an issue with water continually going into the cistern ,you need to establish why. does water level reach the overflow ? or is water getting from the cistern into the pan ,via a failed seal ? either would cause the new inlet valve to permanently allow more water into cistern. of course the new valve may be faulty but you should rule out the above .

 

[just pumps]

In theory yes however the valve wouldn`t be quite so firm owing to the extra rubber, could you cut the extra off the shank?

 

[Elkato531]

could you cut the extra off the shank?

Not easy as the cut would need to be perfectly square.

If you can shut the water off, remove the isolation valve and cut the pipe back a bit to suit the length of the new valve shank

 

[just pumps]

Not easy as the cut would need to be perfectly square.

Which is perfectly easy to do before you fit it.

 

[polesapart]

Could i place an extra 1 or 2 rubber washers under the base of the valve (inside the cistern) in order to reduce the length of the shank.

Yes. I've done it a few times.

You may find that that you don't need to as the fluidmaster comes with a thicker washer any way; the trick is to compare old and new shanks with washers on.

If you cut the silicone around the feed pipe you may get may well get the movement you need anyway.

 

[Nige F]

You may find - looking up the end of the brass shank on the fluidmaster - that it has a slight taper (No, I've not looked ) if it has you could connect a short piece of copper with an olive straight in, loosing the length of the existing tap connector.

 

[just pumps]

You may find - looking up the end of the brass shank on the fluidmaster - that it has a slight taper (No, I've not looked ) if it has you could connect a short piece of copper with an olive straight in, loosing the length of the existing tap connector.

Just looked in the van and whilst the pipe fits the taper isn`t enough to form a good seat.
Edit, just realised Nige said Brass shank, mine was plastic.

 

[Ryan79]

I've played around a little more with the torbeck (big mallet) and so far no more leaks once its reached it's level.

It's still IMO a cheap piece of crap and will look to replace it but not so urgent now.

Thanks for tips and advice