cleaning water tank

[noidea27]

hello. this water tank is at the top of a cabinet in the bathroom. I think it's for the hot water only, as running the cold taps does nothing, whereas it starts to refill when the hot taps are on.

we've had an eggy smell in the bathroom and it seems to be coming from this tank.

am I safe just picking off the chunks of (presumably limescale), or should I use some sort of descaler?

thanks

 

[Madrab]

Needs properly cleaned and if there's a smell then it will need disinfected. Easy enough to do.

Isolate water to it, drain down, it may need stripped down and a limescale remover used to soak all the hardware in to clean it properly, may need bits replaced. Chlorine is usually used to disinfect cisterns but with that one a good clean down and scrub out will a anti bac cleaner will probably be fine.

Whatever is used to clean and descale just remember to clean and flush it out properly before re-instating the cistern.

 

[DiyNutJob]

If you are going to do it, might as well do a full job of taking it off. You don't want bits falling off and getting into the pipes. It will make your hot water pressure worst. You should be able to wipe most of it off with a rough cloth. Should be OK to wash it with washing up liquid. The tank would be fed by the cold mains. Turning that off would stop the feed. Then run the hot tap to empty it.

 

[Madrab]

If it smells then there is bacteria present, probably aided by the limescale build up, it needs disinfected, can just be by a normal kitchen anti-bac spray.

Be careful if you are using the cylinder to drain it, if any debris that may be in the bottom of the cistern or that falls off and gets into the HW pipework/cylinder then that can cause all sorts of problems. Personally, I'd bung the cistern, disconnect and drain down/bail it out.

 

[Nige F]

Wouldn't hurt to change that old float valve for a new part2 type

 

[noidea27]

thanks chaps. i've found the isolator valve and that stops the tank refilling when the hot taps are on. can I just check a couple of things -

1. how do I stop the crud going down the 'drain' when I scrape it all off? I've got a wet and dry vac but don't want deposits going through the pipe work. is jamming a rag down the opening sufficient?

2. if I replace the ballcock with a 'type 2' - what's the advantage (apart from being clean!)? and is it just a straight swap (presume you just turn the whole thing anti clockwise and spin it off the thread?

cheers

 

[Bigily87]

In most cases a part 2 valve should be fitted to comply with regulations so as to give the required air gap between the water surface and the BV outlet.

 

[Madrab]

1. Yes, or buy/make a bung

2. As suggested, if a ball valve is to be replaced it needs to be a Part 2, to comply with current regs

It might also help for the future to look at a treatment for your hard water. If that's what your cistern in like, I hate to think what the coil inside your cylinder might look like.

 

[noidea27]

Thanks. I'll look at sorting this tomorrow.

Regarding treatment for the water, I know you can buy things to attach to pipes, but is there a product that you can pour into the tank, open all the hot taps and flush it all through?

e.g. FERNOX DS-3 LIMESCALE Remover 2KG https://amzn.eu/d/crjGw0r

cheers

 

[Madrab]

You need to be careful when using commercial limescale removers. They are acidic and can cause all sorts of problems if not used properly, they will produce gas (CO2 if I remember) and are classed as a hazardous product. They also need to be exhausted when disposing of as they can be harmful if still active.

Not being in a hard water area I've not had a huge amount of exposure to treatments for limescale so may not be the best person to advise of suitable treatment and processes.