Colourwashing pine knots

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Hi,

this is my first post on the forum so please be gentle! :rolleyes:

I have a pine wardrobe I'd like to colour with diluted paint, just to give it a little colour but still allow the grain of the wood to be visible.

Trouble is, it has a lot of knots in it and I've been told I need to use Knotting Solution to cover these and stop them 'bleeding'.

But I've also been informed that if I do this them I won't be able to use a water-based paint over these knots as the solution will stop the paint 'taking' well.

If this is the case, does anyone know of anything else I can use on the knots, or any other solutions to this problem?

Many thanks :)
 
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Igloo,

If you were to apply any paint system albeit diluted it would both hide and mask the original/natural grain of the timber.

Dec
 
Hi,

this is my first post on the forum so please be gentle! :rolleyes:

I have a pine wardrobe I'd like to colour with diluted paint, just to give it a little colour but still allow the grain of the wood to be visible.

Trouble is, it has a lot of knots in it and I've been told I need to use Knotting Solution to cover these and stop them 'bleeding'.

But I've also been informed that if I do this them I won't be able to use a water-based paint over these knots as the solution will stop the paint 'taking' well.

If this is the case, does anyone know of anything else I can use on the knots, or any other solutions to this problem?

Many thanks :)

Do you mean Colourwash :?:

If you want to show the grain DO NOT APPLY KNOTTING Knotting is only useful for stopping the bleed discolouration through opaque paints like gloss / satinwood etc. So if varnishing or colourwashing no treatment of knots required. Unless its bare wood, then just wipe over knots with metheylated spirits.Or. Ammonia.

Good luck
 
As jondecs says, there is no need to apply knotting solution if you are colour washing.

When this was type of effect was all the rage in the 'Changing Rooms' era, we used to use very diluted matt emulsion (you will need to experiment a little to get the mix right) which would allow the grain of the timber to clearly show through and also give the impression of a traditional 'chalky' limewash finish. You will find the grain of the wood will raise after the initial coat and so a light sanding with very fine paper will be required to achieve a smooth finish with the second coat. This method should only be used on bare wood as it will not adhere to timber that has been previously treated.
 
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If the op wishes to achieve a limewash effect, perhaps he should consider the use of liming wax such as Liberon, Fiddes, or Ronseal.

Dec
 
Thanks so much to all of you for the replies!

The Dec - I was hoping that a very dilute paint wash would colour the wood (orangy pine) while allowing the grain itself to still be seen. I'd read that a water-based paint would sink into the wood allowing this? I may have a look at waxes as I investigate further.

Jondecs - Yes, I do mean colourwashing. Sounds as if I should steer clear on knotting! It is bare wood, so is meths still advisable for that?

Misterhelpful (love the name!) - very sorry I've invoked the dreaded Changing Rooms reference! My other half looks wary because of that very show every time I mention wanting to paint furniture . . . :rolleyes:
I've got some wood to practice on and will start using a very dilute paint mix. The wood has never been treated.

Thanks so much for the helpful responses :)
 
If you do try the diluted paint method it can be handy to apply with a brush and lightly wipe any excess with a rag to get the sort of finish you are seeking.

Good luck - Mr Llewelyn-Bowen will be proud!! ;)
 
Am getting put off by the Llewelyn-Bowen references!!

Will check out the Ronseal brushing wax, thanks for the name :)

At least that way, I may feel less like I'm on a bad TV show . . . :cool:
 
No or the other way around, so whatever method you choose to a test area first.

Dec
 
Ah, okay.

Will try both out on some wood before I embark on the wardrobe itself.

Many thanks! :D
 

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