Combi vs system boiler and tank

If the cylinder is located far away from the tap, and the boiler is close to the tap, and that particular tap is used often, then the combi outlet is better as the hot water will arrive at the tap much quicker and the amount of hot water left in the pipes will be small.


For that it makes very little difference, because unlike turning a hot tap on briefly many times a day, the cylinder will be heated only once or a few times for an extended period, and the amount of hot water left in the pipes is insignificant compared to the total energy put into the cylinder.

Cylinder location relative to the hot water outlets is far more significant, and all of the pipework should be properly insulated in all cases.

Just jumping on this, what is the best way to get the pipes from the first floor down the walls to the taps on a block construction house but have room for them to be insulated and not touching concrete or board adhesive? Plastic fittings are also large.
 
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Don't use plastic fittings if you can possibly avoid them- have a manifold somewhere accessible & continuous runs from manifold to appliance. Plastic fittings are a bit pricey as well...
 
Don't use plastic fittings if you can possibly avoid them- have a manifold somewhere accessible & continuous runs from manifold to appliance. Plastic fittings are a bit pricey as well...

I've used copper a lot in the past so formed as many bends as possible but i don't think it's advisable for running against concrete walls behind boards. New build is going to be posi joists so plastic seems to be the easiest way for most of it and maybe chase or batten the walls where pipes go?
 
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the cylinder will be heated only once or a few times for an extended period, and the amount of hot water left in the pipes is insignificant compared to the total energy put into the cylinder.

Thats a good way of looking at it ...

 
With board adhesive only being thin once the board is applied, are most 15mm pipes chased into the wall?
 
With board adhesive only being thin once the board is applied, are most 15mm pipes chased into the wall?

Depends what you want. If pipes are surface run with clips and felt then tackers will just dotndab as much as required to get over them.
 
I've used copper a lot in the past so formed as many bends as possible but i don't think it's advisable for running against concrete walls behind boards. New build is going to be posi joists so plastic seems to be the easiest way for most of it and maybe chase or batten the walls where pipes go?
Crack on then- burying plastic pipe is fine (do try and keep a record of where they are cos they'll be harder to detect than metal pipe) but don't bury the fittings. Personally I try not to bury pipes...
 
Crack on then- burying plastic pipe is fine (do try and keep a record of where they are cos they'll be harder to detect than metal pipe) but don't bury the fittings. Personally I try not to bury pipes...

I'd also prefer to not bury them, I just can't think of a way of getting the pipes down to the kitchen sink which is on an outside wall when they'll be routed though the posi joists. Not been in any new builds to see how this is done. Downstairs bathroom wont be as bad because it's stud walling. Chase out/batten wall & board over/surface mount & box in, will have to see what other new homes do.
 
Are any of them mains water? If so you can't embed them, you need some sort of duct/access.

Does this mean for all hot and cold supply pipes that feed taps, they need to have removable capping so that you can access them?
From where my mains supply enters to join the stop cock, after that i will need to distribute the pipes around the house to feed the kitchen, bathroom & outside tap downstairs, and then the upstairs bathroom. So at some point one or 2 runs of hot and cold supply will need to pass up/down an external and internal walls.

Old council houses always have the pipes ran externally or boxed in badly, i was hoping for a more discreet look.
 

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