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At the moment, there's a small cinderblock wall of about 900mm high x 1200mm long, that is the original balustrade in a 1950s build house. I want to remove the wall, and install an oak and glass handrail/balustrade, and it is just 1 newel post attached to stringer/joist, and a half post at the other end, total, about 1200mm. I have a few questions on the best way to construct this at floor level, because of the size of the blocks that make up the existing wall, to remove them all, would take it below floor level on the landing, and I would have to build it back up. If I leave a row of the large blocks in, it'll be above the existing floor level on the landing, so removing all the large blocks below floor level, and then building back up with bricks and mortar seems the right thing to do? Also, the floorboards on the landing are uneven and knackered, so I'm going to replace them too. My questions are..
When constructing a glass and oak balustrade, there's the handrail and a base rail - What exactly should the base rail be sat on/fixed to? Would building up with bricks and mortar, and then adding the new floorboards first, and letting the base rail sit on them, be a good option? I've seen a few vids where they have used a window board sat at floor level, overhanging the stairs slightly and then the base rail sat on that. Would that be better than the oak base rail directly onto the landing floorboards?
I was also thinking about the logistics of fitting the handrail between the 2 posts. I've seen a few different methods, from the locking clip kits that stair box sell, to tenons, to jigs for the profile of the entire handrail into the newel. As the half newel and the full post will already be fixed in place and I don't think there will be much play, what would be the best kind of joints to make a strong handrail, that can be dry fitted first, to make sure everything is spot on before glueing and screwing?
Regarding the post and half post, how much in MM should they overhang the stairs, and should the post carry on down the wall of the stair way slightly, if it is a brick wall directly below? There is a wall on either side of the stairs, it is not open.
I can do some photos if it helps? Any other suggestions welcome, cheers.
Thanks.
When constructing a glass and oak balustrade, there's the handrail and a base rail - What exactly should the base rail be sat on/fixed to? Would building up with bricks and mortar, and then adding the new floorboards first, and letting the base rail sit on them, be a good option? I've seen a few vids where they have used a window board sat at floor level, overhanging the stairs slightly and then the base rail sat on that. Would that be better than the oak base rail directly onto the landing floorboards?
I was also thinking about the logistics of fitting the handrail between the 2 posts. I've seen a few different methods, from the locking clip kits that stair box sell, to tenons, to jigs for the profile of the entire handrail into the newel. As the half newel and the full post will already be fixed in place and I don't think there will be much play, what would be the best kind of joints to make a strong handrail, that can be dry fitted first, to make sure everything is spot on before glueing and screwing?
Regarding the post and half post, how much in MM should they overhang the stairs, and should the post carry on down the wall of the stair way slightly, if it is a brick wall directly below? There is a wall on either side of the stairs, it is not open.
I can do some photos if it helps? Any other suggestions welcome, cheers.
Thanks.
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