Controlling immersion with solar pv

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I install one or two combis fed from unvented cylinders heated by solar thermal. When the cylinder supplies hot water the combi doesn’t fire. I’ve got one or two who want to prioritise solar pv to the cylinder but don’t want to heat from the grid unless commanded. Does anyone know of a switching system that would accommodate?
 
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but the cost of heating HW by gas is extremely low (just look at the summer USAGE gas meter readings; mine is about 1 cu.m/day in June/July/Aug) so the cost of an immersion diverter will not be repaid for many many years; quite likely longer than its service life.

In winter, solar electric generation is insignificant, hardly enough to run the fridge freezer and lights. And that is in the (brief) hours of daylight.

my solar generation this December averaged 2.5 kWh/day.

Last year it was 3.1kWh.

Backround usage (PC, fridge freezers, TV on standby, excluding heating, kettle, washing machine etc) is about 350W, so will use up what little the panels make with nothing to spare for an immersion in winter.
 
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iBoost is the cheapest off the shelf option and easy to fit.

MyEnergi Eddi if they might also want to integrate with solar charging of EV and other smart homes stuff.
 
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.... so the cost of an immersion diverter will not be repaid for many many years; quite likely longer than its service life. .... In winter, solar electric generation is insignificant, hardly enough to run the fridge freezer and lights. And that is in the (brief) hours of daylight. .... my solar generation this December averaged 2.5 kWh/day. ... Last year it was 3.1kWh. ... Backround usage (PC, fridge freezers, TV on standby, excluding heating, kettle, washing machine etc) is about 350W, so will use up what little the panels make with nothing to spare for an immersion in winter.
I'm getting a bit confused by this discussion. Are we perhaps talking about a 'mini' immersion heater?

With the sort of figures you're talking about (which I suspect are probably reasonably 'typical'), it is difficult to see how (certainly in Winter), even the entire solar generation (let alone 'excess' generation) would presumably never be enough to power a standard 3kW immersion (for any period of time), would it (given that immersion heaters are entirely dumb passive loads)?

What am I missing?

Kind Regards, John
 
With the sort of figures you're talking about (which I suspect are probably reasonably 'typical'), it is difficult to see how (certainly in Winter), even the entire solar generation (let alone 'excess' generation) would presumably never be enough to power a standard 3kW immersion (for any period of time), would it (given that immersion heaters are entirely dumb passive loads)?

yes, that's right.

but

the immersion controllers only send power when there is excess power generated, above that used in the house (which they detect by measuring exported power on the meter tails)

and they reduce the voltage to the immersion so that (since it is a simple resistive load) it does not use enough to reduce exported power to zero or below. AFAIK they work like a lighting dimmer that clips the peaks, and the amount of clipping is controlled by the exported power it can measure on the meter tails. It has a sort of clamp meter, I don't know how it manages to detect direction of flow.

so, if you have 500w of exported power, they will divert (about 450W) to the immersion

although, on dull winter days, exported power may be zero most of the time. There may be a bit when the sun pops out from behind a cloud if, at that moment, you are not using a kettle, toaster, washing machine etc

The money-saving figures quoted in the ads seem to be based on the assumption that you live in an all-electric house. Cost of HW by gas is tiny and savings do not make these controllers an economic proposition.

If however you live in an all-electric house, you don't need a controller, you may as well just have a timer to run the immersion from 10am to 4pm, in which case it will pick up whatever solar power there happens to be, and you have to heat the water electrically because you have no other option.
 
The solic 200's are £140 on amazon, where are you getting your iboosts?

i see the prices are coming down. I think I paid £250 for an Immersun (or was it an iboost?)

Solic list price is £200 but they give trade discounts to installers.

waste of money, anyway.
 
Some people go to work all day and there's no base load aside from the fridge. Others have larger solar installations. Hot water is used in summer too when the PV is providing more. There's no feed-in tarrif for many so anything that's used to heat water instead of flowing back to the grid is a saving. If you rarely generate more than you use obviously it isn't going to help you much. In the example above the plumber mentions a combi so presumably gas fired (and assisted by excess solar PV, via the Solic or Iboost).
 
Hot water is used in summer too when the PV is providing more.

if you have gas, you will notice that the cost of HW is tiny. Accordingly, savings from using PV and immersion are also tiny.

Look at your metered gas usage for a summer month. How much is it?
 
yes, that's right. .... but .... they reduce the voltage to the immersion so that (since it is a simple resistive load) it does not use enough to reduce exported power to zero or below. AFAIK they work like a lighting dimmer ....
Oh, fair enough - I had not considered their being that 'clever'.
... If however you live in an all-electric house, you don't need a controller, you may as well just have a timer to run the immersion from 10am to 4pm, in which case it will pick up whatever solar power there happens to be, and you have to heat the water electrically because you have no other option.
That's all very well but if one has an all-electric house then, at least at present, one is quite likely to have night storage heaters and a dual-rate tariff - in which case "having the immersion on from 10am to 4pm" would probably be just about the last thing one would want to do!

Kind Regards, John
 
I've only installed one of each, both customer supplied, the Iboost was factory fitted to the new cylinder (Megaflow eco?) and the CT clamp is wireless but with a battery transmitter, so easy install but really bad design if you ask me (bateries onyl last a year..) The Solic was not as robust a unit (the teminals, housing etc) but it had a wired CT clamp. Installed next to the DB and wired into the dedicated immersion circuit so no need to route cables (in that install). The solic 200 on sale now looks different than the older model I fitted. Looking again at the solic manual I'm wondering if it can only actually divert 200w (looking at the examples given for mode 1 setup)
 

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