- Joined
- 27 Jan 2008
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The dishwasher, washing machine, and tumble drier, all have multi-programs, and delay start timers. And the washing machine weighs the load, so using a plug in energy meter does not help much, as each time used we get different results, and if something has not washed fully, the cost to wash a second time is likely more than the cost of a longer wash cycle.
Try to compare microwave, air fryer, and fan oven, well can't use the plug in tester on the fan oven, and looking at methods to boil water, and what it seems is the question, is how much extra boiled to what is required, the microwave costs the most to boil water, and the kettle on an induction hob takes slightly more to a standard electric kettle, the cup boiler it seems down to how much water one wants, as it boils a fixed amount every time, even when we can set cup size, it simply bleeds some water back into the reservoir. But I do not measure the amount put in a jug kettle, so likely some always left unused.
And 60 seconds to boil enough water for a cup of coffee or tea, at 3 kW looking at 1.5p to boil a cup of water, at 30p/kWh so is it really worth worrying about?
200–750 watts seem to be my baseline. As to if freezer, fridge, or the smart devices on stand-by, can't really say.
If something produces heat which goes into the room, then summer cost of AC to remove it needs adding, and winter reduction in cost for central heating needs removing. But both heating and cooling to work out cost is hard. If I feel I need the AC on, then normally already too warm for the thermostat to start cycling it. And heating, can we really work out what has been saved?
Is it worth it?
Try to compare microwave, air fryer, and fan oven, well can't use the plug in tester on the fan oven, and looking at methods to boil water, and what it seems is the question, is how much extra boiled to what is required, the microwave costs the most to boil water, and the kettle on an induction hob takes slightly more to a standard electric kettle, the cup boiler it seems down to how much water one wants, as it boils a fixed amount every time, even when we can set cup size, it simply bleeds some water back into the reservoir. But I do not measure the amount put in a jug kettle, so likely some always left unused.
And 60 seconds to boil enough water for a cup of coffee or tea, at 3 kW looking at 1.5p to boil a cup of water, at 30p/kWh so is it really worth worrying about?
200–750 watts seem to be my baseline. As to if freezer, fridge, or the smart devices on stand-by, can't really say.
If something produces heat which goes into the room, then summer cost of AC to remove it needs adding, and winter reduction in cost for central heating needs removing. But both heating and cooling to work out cost is hard. If I feel I need the AC on, then normally already too warm for the thermostat to start cycling it. And heating, can we really work out what has been saved?
