Could you convert a traditional sash window to a non-sash?

[d000hg]

If you have an old wooden sash window but never want to open it, then as part of renovating it could you move the sashes slightly so they just sit on top of each other... turn it into a more streamlined non-opening window using the original sashes and keeping the classic look?

I suppose I'd imagine pushing the lower sash outwards into the 'runners' where the upper sash slides down. Then taking out the boxes and so on - conceivably you could equally pull the top sash inwards to get the same end result.
Figured it means less to dust, a sleeker look and no need for window locks to meet insurance requirements.

Anyone ever seen this done? Does a non-sash Victorian window have a particular name so I could google for anyone having done such conversions before?

 

[KenGMac]

d000hg, good evening.

Short answer is an emphatic NO!

Because of the profiles of the lower and upper sashes, your proposal simply cannot work.

If you are trying to get the two sashes to be shall I call it "locked" into place, and not move? [if that is what you are attempting to achieve?]

Simply fit screws into the top rail of the lower sash into the bottom rail of the upper sash then apply several, yes several coats of paint both internally and externally.

Bluntly it is not possible to "move" either a lower oR upper sash as you describe.

Ken.

 

[d000hg]

Cheers. I thought it might work but I wasn't sure and don't want to start sawing things.

 

[Doggit]

Kens essentiall right, but it can be done if you are able to take off a bit off of the top and botom of each sash, as they normally overlap each other.. You take the weights out, and then put the into the outer channel. It'll then be down to your woodwork skills as to how you finish it off.

 

[d000hg]

Trust me it wouldn't me me doing that sort of woodwork

I've got some people coming to quote on restoration, is it worth asking them... Something an old school guy might be able to magic up?

 

[Doggit]

You can only ask them, but it'll also depend on the depth of the rails on the sashes. Mine were sufficeintly enough deep to let me take half inch of the top and the bottom, and still stay stable.

 

[big-all]

so many pitfalls lol
assuming you have say a 7degree splay[fall on the ledge]your back bottom sash would drop perhaps 10mm in the front sash position but that will still give your [now common ] mid rail an out off proportion size and without a shadow gap it will look odd
you are now also taking perhaps 100 year old joints and timber removing a proportion off the mortice and tennons joints to give a look you like but possibly weakening it to a point it may crack the paint frequently or fail much quicker
also keep in mind you will have a wedge now exposed on the top rail off the bottom sash