Cracks around UPVC doorframe

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We had some UPVC doors fitted around 10 years ago. Over probably the past year or so I've noticed a crack appearing pretty much around the whole door frame (picture attached). What do people think has happened here - would there have been some sort of sealant applied first and then plastered over - in which case do I need to hack out the plaster and redo it all? If I apply pressure to the doorframe by hand you can actually see the crack widen and then go back to how it looks here.
Thanks for any advice.
 
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It's likely the frame was never properly fixed to the masonry. In fact if you look at the frame fixing at the bottom of your photo it hasn't been driven fully home - and that's the only one in the photo.

If the frame moves it's pointless re-doing the plaster as it will just fail again. You need to fix the frame so it doesn't move.
 
Hi thanks for your reply. On this side of the frame there are 4 screw holes, of which only 1 has the screw fully screwed in all the way. The others look like they have some sort of substance around the head of the screw - filler/sealant type of thing. Should I try screwing them in deeper? I suspect they were done like that for a reason though as our front door frame is exactly the same - no issue there though as that is not used as much. I suspect the issue with this door is that as it is used a lot that over the years a few hard slams etc has probably dislodged the screws from the masonry, not sure what we can do about that? Drill some more holes but then you are just guessing at what you are screwing in to.
Any advice greatfully received. Thanks.
 
Hi, I thought I would resurrect this thread as we now have the further issue of the cement on the outside of the door frame having cracked and about to fall out - see pics. I'm pretty sure the overriding problem here is the frame has come loose from the brickwork it was originally attached to due to door shutting/slamming over the years. This has caused the plaster on the inside to have cracked and come loose, as well as this new issue on the outside with the cement. The best course of action long term I'm assuming is to drill new holes through the frame into the brickwork and insert some of those long screws complete with rawlplugs. Trouble is I can't see how that would work as to drill a hole through the frame as big as you need for the rawlplug will mean the screw head would just screw through the hole in the frame - I can't see how it would attach? Any thoughts?
I'm thinking I might mix a cement and sealant/mastic solution together to re-point the exterior - I have read that cement will always crack as there is likely to be some movement but this seems to have been what was originally done. Also once fixed I'm thinking of using an internal sealant/mastic to fill in the cracked area after hooking out the loose plaster, does that sound reasonable? Thanks in advance for any advice.
 
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Try these
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7-5-x-122...rial_Nails_Fixing_MJ&var=&hash=item4ac1a12764

No plugs required. Do 4 equally spaced fixings down each side. The fixings nearest the corners should be 170mm from the corner welds.

Then seal inside and out with
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wurth-Acr..._Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item20c7bc8d95

If you masking tape the edge of the frame seal it, run your finger over it, paint it then remove the tape you will have nice clean painted lines. The sealant it flexible so should prevent future cracking.
 
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You will need to take out and fill some of the larger chunks of plaster first. Oh and use the 120mm fixings.
 
Thank you very much for this advice.

So just to clarify, use the acrylic sealant for the largish outside chunk of cement which is about to fall out? Don't use cement at all?

And use the same sealant as filler for the inside, once I've removed the chunks of plaster?

Just as a point of interest how on earth do the screws work then, just drilling into masonry?? Thanks again.
 
If the render is really loose it would be best to re cement it 1st. Use normal filler on the larger inside chunks. The sealant is ideal for gaps up to 10mm.

As for the fixings they are self threading and self packing, Use a 6mm HSS bit for drilling through the frame and metal reinforcing, Then go through with the 6.5 hammer bit all the way, Then just screw in with the supplied star driver bit.
 
Thanks again for your advice. Just one more thing, just been looking at the drill bit and screw set - it mentions an SDS bit - I don't have an SDS drill, do you think my normal drill will suffice with the normal masonry bit so long as I have the drill in hammer mode?

Also due to the thickness of the frame I would imagine the drill bit will not go in as far as the screw needs to go, will I be able to screw the remainder in??
 
A normal drill will do but you will need a extra long 6.5mm bit. 150mm will do but easier with a 210mm
 
Hmm I've finally got round to giving this a go with the screws mentioned. I've drilled the first hole with a 210mm bit x 6.5mm, the hardest part was getting through the frame and metal reinforcements. Anyway done that and into the brick. Screwed the first 7.5mm screw in, only needed a hand screwdriver but it goes in easily all the way and tries to keep turning, so it seems to me that it's not cut its own thread sufficiently, not sure what to do now as it certainly doesn't seem like this will improve things.
 
It may be possible that you have only caught the edge of the brick/block and the bolt may have split it.
Try going through at an angle. If your fixing on the inner face of the door do an inwards angle and opposite if your in the outer edge of the door.

Its also possible that you are fixing into thermalite blocks in which case don't over tighten. Once the head of the screw is flush with the frame that is it, Give the frame a tug to feel if its secure.
 

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