Damp proofing..... :(

Joined
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Staffordshire
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United Kingdom
hello again..
I’m sure most have read or seen my previous threads about damp and leaking underground pipes and more recently lime mortar.. and yet again, I find myself with another question about the same flippin wall.. but hopefully this will be it.
I’ve fixed the cause (I hope) of the damp - leaking underground clay pipes - I’ve been told the water supply is all good, I’ve also been told that the pointing is shot from the damp, but it’s lime, so as guided by you awesome lot, I’m going to wait until the spring to point it up.. the only thing that’s bugging me is the damp course.. I’ve found it within the mortar... but also have the silicon stubs as you can see in the picture... should these be within the mortar line or are they supposed to be in the bricks? My other question is, is there any harm in me going along the mortar line just above where my gravel sits with the similar silicon insert system that they sell in wickes... ? The plaster is off inside and the brickwork is hopefully drying off although I’ve been told it’ll take weeks/months. The other thing that’s bothering me is that it doesn’t go along all the way along the wall... it goes up.. (think it’s in the picture) fowllowing an internal wall which I assume used to be the outside wall some years ago. I can get more pics if it would help. Also - if you think it would benefit from being done, is it best to do it sooner rather than later to aid drying and re point still in the spring.. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated... I’m a bit stumped.

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Damp proof course in pre 1930s houses is more like a damp resistant course. Anything you can do to help it out would improve things if the problem is that it's coming through.
If you're adding a chemical assistance, make sure you follow the instructions. I used the Wickes injected one at 25 quid a tube and it seemed alright, i slightly over dosed as i had plenty left over.
 
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I’m thinking of giving this stuff a whirl... it looks like I can do it from the inside. The floor is concrete which is dry so I’m hoping that doing inserts will just cover all bases.. does that sound plausible??
 
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Slate is waterproof and lasts two million years.
Yes but good luck getting a continuous bed of slate. Certainly ours is just two layers set in lime mortar, so the water saturates the mortar and can eventually go through the gaps.
 

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