Diesel Vectra B - does not start from new battery

[tmasa]

Hi

About 3 weeks ago my 51-reg diesel Vectra wouldn't start after it was left unused for several days with temperatures below zero.

Called AA, they jump-started it easily, I then managed to key-start it again in several hours but didn't drive, just moved the car to another parking space.

Meanwhile, a couple of weeks later, I received the new battery (Alphaline) which appeared to be not fully charged (12.3 v), left it charging for 6 hrs, also charged the old battery for 12 hrs.

The car still wouldn't start from any battery, - all I hear when I turn the key is a "click" somewhere inside the engine.

The voltage is the following:

Initially: 12.7 (new) 12.9 (old)
On key half-turn drops to: 11.7 both
Restores after several seconds to: 12.5 (new) 12.2 (old)

Also tested my other diesel car which is quite fresh and has no starting issues, it i more or less the same: 12.5, then drops to below 12 and the restores to 12.2 and can be started easily then.

I now ran out of options what to check/do myself, there are no lights flashing, electrics work fine in the car, battery connections seem to be ok, no loss there ...

What else can it be ?

 

[Mursal]

Check the voltage across the starter (large battery wire (red lead) to the body of the starter (black lead))when you go for a start if its the same as battery voltage then it is the solenoid on the starter or the starter motor itself. If less by several volts than its a bad connection between the battery and starter. Could be a bad earth connection.

Always good to hit the side of the starter a sharp tap or two when this happens, in case there is something jammed due to the cold weather.

 

[tmasa]

Check the voltage across the starter (large battery wire (red lead) to the body of the starter (black lead))when you go for a start if its the same as battery voltage then it is the solenoid on the starter or the starter motor itself. If less by several volts than its a bad connection between the battery and starter. Could be a bad earth connection.

Always good to hit the side of the starter a sharp tap or two when this happens, in case there is something jammed due to the cold weather.

Thanks!

If it was the starter, would it still jump-start ?

What about the bad earth connection, is it possible to check this somehow/ clean some connectors ?

 

[Burnerman]

If you want to check the earth return, connect a voltmeter between the engine and the bodywork. Upon cranking, the voltage should be zero if alls well.
The click you can hear is probably the starter solenoid operating, but it could also be the glowplug relay switching on.
Does the car start from a jumping battery just now? I suspect it wont, and that the starter itself has had a hard time - but if it does, get the battery to a motor factors to have a heavy discharge test carried out.
John

 

[tmasa]

If you want to check the earth return, connect a voltmeter between the engine and the bodywork. Upon cranking, the voltage should be zero if alls well.
The click you can hear is probably the starter solenoid operating, but it could also be the glowplug relay switching on.
Does the car start from a jumping battery just now? I suspect it wont, and that the starter itself has had a hard time - but if it does, get the battery to a motor factors to have a heavy discharge test carried out.
John

Not sure if I did it correctly, - set voltmeter to 20, connected black terminal to the engine, red to the bodywork - was zero all the way through.

Just managed to jump-start it this morning from the 1st attempt, no problems whatsoever. Took it for a short drive, no warning lights or any other issues. Then restarted the engine from the key a couple of times. Will try again later on today, but still not sure if I can trust the car as I have to drive 300 miles tonight.

 

[Burnerman]

Thanks for your feedback!
So, your car won't start with its own battery but will with a jump, then?
This seems to be due to:
a) Your new battery is goosed (checkable with the heavy discharge test)
b) The charging system isn't up to scratch (look for 14.4 volts, engine running, lights and HRW on)
c) The battery is discharging during the night, due to faulty alternator diodes (disconnect the battery after stopping the engine and leave it that way. When it comes to restart, look for a small spark jumping from the battery to a terminal).
John

 

[tmasa]

Does not start again, 4 hrs later ...

Looks like I will have to take it to the garage, no easy solution ...

 

[Burnerman]

Try (c) then......disconnect the battery, fully charge it, connect it back up and immediately try for start.
John

 

[tmasa]

Try (c) then......disconnect the battery, fully charge it, connect it back up and immediately try for start.
John

That is what I did this morning, the new battery was charging for 20 hrs, in the morning I put it into the vehicle and tried to start the car immediately, - nothing happened. The jump-start was shortly after that attempt.

 

[Burnerman]

I reckon your new battery (or maybe the charger) is goosed then.
Why not take it to a motor factors for a heavy discharge test?
John

 

[tmasa]

I reckon your new battery (or maybe the charger) is goosed then.
Why not take it to a motor factors for a heavy discharge test?
John

Not sure where to find these, any names ? Is it a time consuming process, what do they normally charge ? Thanks

 

[Burnerman]

Any tyre services will test it for you, and sell you a new one if its faulty.
The test is usually free, but the price of a bacon sandwich is appreciated!
John

 

[jctilingservices]

another common fault on vauxhalls causing the battery to drain, is sometimes the lamp in the boot stays on, so if thats the case you are jumping the car, not giving battery enough time to charge, the lamp could be pulling more charge, therefore not having enough to crank the engine, BUT i would say your new battery is faulty

 

[tmasa]

good point, I will check the lights

Also my neighbour did mention some time ago that my reverse lights were not working, not sure if this is of any relevance though

 

[Burnerman]

If you want to check your system for unwanted current drain, set your multimeter to the current scale (highest amps as possible) and connect it between the disconnected positive battery lead and the positive terminal.
Your reversing lamps are controlled by a switch on the gearbox which only works with the ignition on - so no relevance to your existing fault.
John