Dilemma while moving a doorway

[oldbutnotdead]

UPDATE

Mind the gap

• oldbutnotdead
• 22 Jan 2015
• 1

Centre cracked bit of wall gone

Proppage

• oldbutnotdead
• 22 Jan 2015
• 1

Floor joists run front to back- weird since the ceiling joists run side to side.

Propping detail

Proppage 2

• oldbutnotdead
• 22 Jan 2015
• 1

More propping detail

Ex cloakroom

• oldbutnotdead
• 22 Jan 2015
• 1

Half the lath and plaster sacked off

Half dismantled cloakroom

Pressing on steadily. By the time it got dark yesterday the RH wall was cut out to the new door position, gauge lines marked and all ready to go. But it seemed a bit antisocial to run a mix at 6pm, never mind cutting slips up with the anglegrinder.

My friend the angle grinder

• oldbutnotdead
• 22 Jan 2015
• 1

RH wall cut where side of new doorway will be

Fairly straight cut wall- door set will hide the dodgy bits

Mind the gap 2

• oldbutnotdead
• 22 Jan 2015
• 1

Larger gap

Even bigger gap now (the brick sticking out will be cut out to form the lintel pocket)

So, today was all about wall up to lintel height (once it had got above freezing. Have some pics, ta for the interest

Cramps

• oldbutnotdead
• 22 Jan 2015
• 1

Even remembered to put a couple in- that wall is up to lintel height now but I forgot to take...

Tomorrow's plan- cut out that sticking out brick, chuck the lintel in, keep putting bricks down til I reach the joists/purlins. Did contemplate replacing the 200 year old 4 x 1s but they're in decent nick (apart from the outside 2 which are getting replaced), I'm not planning on storing much in the roof (its a twin ridge job so not a lot of headroom, even less once I've stuffed 300mm of insulation up there) so decided to leave them be. They are amazingly sturdy for such skinny sections.....

 

[oldbutnotdead]

And even more progress.

Bijou wall

• oldbutnotdead
• 24 Jan 2015
• 1

I do like solid bricks but they're a pain to run straight and level

My First Lintel

• oldbutnotdead
• 24 Jan 2015
• 1

My First Lintel

Lintel is in, wall rebuilt up to joist height (that was a pain- coursing was about 50mm out on the existing walls so it was slip tastic under the joists) and nice vertical plinths in for the purlins- with a big gap round the joists so they can't exert leverage on the plinth

And again

• oldbutnotdead
• 24 Jan 2015
• 1

RH purlin

• oldbutnotdead
• 24 Jan 2015
• 1

Yes I know there's an airgap- once it cures I'll stick a block under it

LH purlin

• oldbutnotdead
• 24 Jan 2015
• 1

And again

Clearance

• oldbutnotdead
• 24 Jan 2015
• 1

Bice gap to avoid and leverage issues

Clearance 2

• oldbutnotdead
• 24 Jan 2015
• 1

And again

Left the place tonight with acros set ready to play with the opposite wall- hopefully that'll involve less rebuilding (there's a crack but its very fine & the coursing looks good where I've chopped the plaster back for a recce)

Tomorrow's job- wind the acros up so the purlins are hovering above their plinths (they look in better nick than the pair in the pictures as well) then back them off a millimetre (so the wall has some stabililty imposed from above). Then cut 3 half-bricks out, stick some 4 x 3 needles through, prop with the acros from the built side and rake the lintel slot out with my trusty angle grinder. Should be popular with the neighbours but I really need to get the job done by Mon night (otherwise there'll be another week on the acros)

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Oh Ree, are you there? Or anyone else with any thoughts on the subject

Plans attached= text version is there's a lintel going in and then 2 doorways being created. Question is what to do about the bit between the doorways- I'm fairly sure that a single block pillar 300mm wide is going to be a structural waste of time (between those doors) so I'm thinking 4 x 3 vertical as the starter for the stud wall (fixed at floor, at ceiling and above lintel). Then the sides of the doorway will be 4 x 2 fixed at floor and noggined to each other, noggins fixed to the 4 x 3s.

Objective is to give a solid structure- doors are always going to make noise but I want them to go clunk rather than slam rattle rattle.

OR (here's a thought I've just had) is there any benefit to be had from building my single block pillar between the doorframes and fixing every block to the 4 x 3 starter for the stud wall?

Untitled

• oldbutnotdead
• 24 Jan 2015
• 1

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• oldbutnotdead
• 24 Jan 2015
• 1

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• oldbutnotdead
• 24 Jan 2015
• 1

 

[ree]

Whats the total span of the opening under the lintel? What type/section of lintel?

Whats directly above and below the centre position? Any point load above?

The stud wall - what will the top plate of the stud wall be pinned to?
Is it going in as a framed wall with no openings ie. you appear to show a doorway (door swing) in the stud wall position in one of the pics?
Probably its just me misreading what you are doing.

Thanks for keeping us up to speed with your project, i find it interesting and useful.

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Morning ree, ta for the interest.

Whats the total span of the opening under the lintel? What type/section of lintel?

The opening under the lintel is 1900, lintel is 2400. Lintel is a Birtley Supergalv SB100 100 wide x 140 deep, total UDL 20 Kn

Whats directly above and below the centre position? Any point load above?

There'll be about 5 courses of brick above the lintel then the ceiling joists sitting on those bricks. The ceiling area being supported is about 16 square metres- joists run across, supported at either end by roof trusses and about a metre in from each truss the side half-brick walls. I'll put the purlins on that elevation as well

Untitled

• oldbutnotdead
• 25 Jan 2015
• 1

The stud wall - what will the top plate of the stud wall be pinned to?
Is it going in as a framed wall with no openings ie. you appear to show a doorway (door swing) in the stud wall position in one of the pics?

Top plate of the stud wall will be pinned to noggins between the ceiling joists. And of course the top plate will be fixed to the side plates- on that plan the righthand side is a solid halfbrick wall, the left hand side is 5 courses of halfbrick above the lintel and then the floor (which is why I'm thinking 4 x 3 for that one for a bit more stiffness)

And yes there is a doorway in the stud wall- the original plan was just to move the bedroom doors and create a shower room as an additional toilet/shower (1 bathroom for 4 bedrooms is a little underprovided in this day and age even in the UK).
While I was playing with where to put sink, shower, toilet I realised there would be space to have a door from one bedroom directly into the new shower room (so luxury ensuite when it's only me, which will be most of the time). Of course only 1 access door will be in service at any given time (keylocks in the doors as well as slide modesty bolts)- when I want it as ensuite I'll mask the door from the landing (with a curtain floor to ceiling and wall to wall if I'm lazy or 2 pieces of scenic flattage to look like the rest of the walls if I can be bothered- theatre background you see )

 

[ree]

You should be good to go with that arrangement. That lintel will take the centre load so using a post instead of a narrow column of brick will work fine as everything is tied into everything else.

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Cheers chap- gave the neighbours a break from SDS and grinder action today- it occured to me on the way over there that BCO hasn't signed off on the revised scheme (extra door in the halfbrick wall from the bedroom to the switchable ensuite) so prepped the kitchen floor for concrete oversite instead & get BCO over on Monday morning. No kitchen pics yet- DPM is v unexciting

 

[ree]

Kitchen shells & DPM's might, or might not, be unexciting to professionals but such details are what DIY'ers are searching for. Hopefully, you will include all your steps.

With OP's questioning me, i've noticed that its often the very details that i leave out that are most important to them. Just saying.

 

[oldbutnotdead]

A valid point- often when I've been trawling in here for how to do something it is the little niggly details that are never explained (or just out in as a throwaway sentence). Looking at this it should be a blog......

Slightly (but predictably) frustrating day today- BCO rocked up 10-ish, looked at the plan for the 2 doors & big lintel, told me to get on with it. I'd already propped the purlins above and yes those plinths were wobbly as well (though not as bad as the other side) so they're gone- had to use the hammer though which is a good sign for the rest of the wall

So marked up, found there was a fairly straight course near enough lintel top to use, cut out 2 halfbricks (delicately drilled the mortar out with a 7mm SDS bit) for centre and righthand needles (2 bits of 3 x 2 screwed together and set on edge to give me a 4 x 3 600mm long) and boo, the cracks in the brickwork are bigger than I thought and there are only 2 courses above the props. Probably fall apart but we'll give it a go- worst case 2 courses drop.

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• oldbutnotdead
• 26 Jan 2015
• 1

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• oldbutnotdead
• 26 Jan 2015
• 1

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• oldbutnotdead
• 26 Jan 2015
• 1

And I thought I had a picture of the next bit but obviously not- got the righthand side of the slot cut out nicely but right on the crack there were 3 wobbly halfbricks- gave one a tug and the other 2 dropped. So plan B- prop the ceiling joists instead and just take the courses off above where the doors are going- I'll cut in the lintel pockets tomorrow. So much for getting rid of the props today- not to worry, there's other jobs I can do with them while I've got them.