Disconnect and removing burglar alarm

[Snowyy]

Hello
I've moved in with the Girlfriend a while ago and one of the things on my to do list is to get rid of the existing burglar alarm and replace it with a wireless system. I'm not quite sure how to go about removing the main feed to the box, I've included some pics to help. I figure that I should isolate the mains (switch fuse board off) then disconnect the mains to the box, then the battery at the bottom of the box and then remove the cover of the bell box outside and remove battery in that if there is one. I'm not sure of the make of the alarm, the bell box looks like it has a union jack followed by ADC but I've never heard of them. Then once all that is done it is simply a case of removing all wired sensors and the control panel. The existing alarm control panel has been smashed and my GF doesn't have the code anyway so that is why I want to replace, plus there are better things on the market then this 10 yr old piece of crap.

//www.diynot.com/network/Snowyy/albums/17566/65987

 

[sparkymarka]

1st it's a gardtec 370 metal, why are you fitting a wireless system ? It would be better to replace the system and use the existing wiring has anybody told you of the downfalls of wireless systems ?

 

[Snowyy]

Well we only have 2 PIR sensors in the house, both have been smashed as well as the magnetic door catch and the control panel so these would all need replacing plus we would need another 3 PIR which would have to be wired in and I'm not even sure if the alarm works as my GF hasn't used it in years. I see a buglar alarm as a deterant, if someone wants to break in, they will. even if there is a siren going off. you may know something I don't about wireless alarms however I've heard good reviews from them from people who used to own wired ones. Would there be a battery in the bell box?

 

[sparkymarka]

Yes but depends on what system you buy, most wireless bell boxes only sound for around 4 mins to save the battery some dont have LEDs also to save on battery and most radio pirs go to sleep, again to save battery. so be very carefull what system you choose. The pyronix enforcer has instant wake up on set and you can power the siren from an external power supply if you want.

 

[plugwash]

IIRC you can also get hybrid systems which would let you keep the existing sensor locations wired (more reliable no batteries to change) while adding new wireless sensors in areas not current covered.

 

[Snowyy]

I can see where you are coming from sparkymarka however if someone cuts the power the bell box is only going to siren for 20 mins if that and in the middle of the day when every one is at work even that is not going to be long enough, it would be more for just alerting us that someone is in the house say in the early hours of the morning. The Yale ones I've been looking at says that the siren can be set to 3, 5 or 10 mins. So how do I go about disconnect it?

 

[EightyTwo]

Your method is about right. It's probably best to start with the bell so that you don't annoy the neighbours too much. When you take the cover of it will make a LOUD NOISE!! Be prepared for that and don't fall off your ladder!

Disconnect the internal battery by removing the lead/link/jumper and cut the +12V holdoff wire. This should shut it up. Go down the ladder and into the house. Pull the mains fuse out of the FCU/fused spur and open the panel. Then disconnect the battery and everything will be dead. Now you can go back outside to take the bell down...

To remove the mains cable from the FCU, turn off the electricity (or the right MCB - you can check it with a multimeter or by replacing the fuse and seeing if alarm comes back on), remove the mounting screws and pull it away from the wall, then undo the connection for the flex that's going into the panel. Pull the flex out and refit the FCU on the wall. Stick the fuse on the front with some tape so that (a) you know that it's powered down and (b) you can find it again when you need it!

I soooo agree with Sparkymarka that you'd be much better off fitting a wired system albeit with a new bell, panel, sounder, PIRs and contacts. Not having to worry about interference, batteries, signal strengths etc. is really worth it. As you say, the alarm is a deterrent and a nice shiny new bell box with flashing "comfort" LEDs on it will be more of a deterrent than a Yale/Tate/B&Q/Screwfix box! And since the cables for the hard bits (door contact, bell and keypad) are already in, I would have no hesitation in fitting a wired system, possibly with radio extras as pugwash suggests. However, we're experienced professionals and you're the keen amateur who's going to have to do it - the decision is yours to make!

Oh yes, and don't worry about Billy Burglar trying to get the bell off the wall and cutting the power - he'd much rather do over the house down the street with no alarm and the window open...

 

[Snowyy]

Thank you for your help 82, I shall give it a go on Saturday, i think if all the existing sensors and control panel had not been smashed up and if there was more PIR wired in then I would go for wired.

My neighbour has a wired alarm, it is very loud. Just the other day I said to the GF "have you heard that, 2 days that's been going off-the lazy bastard" no but really it was going off for about 2 hr, I didn't see any one go and knock on the door to check things out.

I'm thinking of getting some wired security cameras, (good ones-night vision, quality image and the ability to view footage on other devices such as mobile and laptop at work) so hopefully that will put off mr burglar even more and with an alarm that dials out when it goes out I could instantly check video footage to see what's occurring and phone police if needed or come home and kick some ass.

 

[EightyTwo]

If you're going to wire the cameras, why not wire the alarm...?

 

[bernardgreen]

bell box is only going to siren for 20 mins if that and in the middle of the day when every one is at work even that is not going to be long enough,

There is a legal limit to the duration of a alarm bell or siren for a domestic burglar alarm. If no one has responded in 20 minutes it is unlikely anyone will. ( other than to smash the bell box to pieces to prevent more disturbed nights )

On the subject of annoyance to the neighbours some alarms can only indicate tamper by going to full alarm. On a wired system tamper invariable means wires being cut. On wireless alarms "tampering" includes the blocking of signals. Some makes allow you to turn off the tamper alarm to avoid what appear to be false alarms. They are not false because they indicate the connection the bell box has been tampered with. On a wired system the wire has been cut, on a wireless system the signals to the bell box are being blocked.

One manufacturer of wireless systems recognises these apparently false alarms can be very annoying to neighbours and recommends turning off the tamper alarm if there are "too many" false alarms. Turning off any tamper detect ( wired or wireless ) does mean the siren is unlikely to sound if a burglary occurs during a period of tampering. On some systems with tamper detect turned off the owner will never be aware when tampering is occurring and that his or her alarm is at that time unable to raise the alarm.