That looks fine , I've come across far worse .
DIY Sash Window Renovation?
- Thread starter macc365
- Start date
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Looking good...I usually trim off the extra putty on the inside after pinning the glass in....then you can see what line you need when smoothing the outside.
Been taking some photos for you.will post them up tomorrow,as it's been a long day today
Been taking some photos for you.will post them up tomorrow,as it's been a long day today
PBSCO/ladylola,
Did as suggested and took section of cill to timber yard and i have 5 new cills, look and smell fantastic! Right my original cills were 3 inch deep and now my replacements are slightly shorter in depth think about 2 1/2 - 2 3/4. Will have to pack them out but with what? Was thinking of just "gobbo" and bedding it on or i have seen them packers that framers use. What would you suggest?
Mark
Did as suggested and took section of cill to timber yard and i have 5 new cills, look and smell fantastic! Right my original cills were 3 inch deep and now my replacements are slightly shorter in depth think about 2 1/2 - 2 3/4. Will have to pack them out but with what? Was thinking of just "gobbo" and bedding it on or i have seen them packers that framers use. What would you suggest?
Mark
Use packers under the cill...plastic ones are fine.
If its half inch shorter than the old cill,then it would probably be best to add a small timber to the front edge of the new cill...something like 35x15 then you can use foam under the cill and add the extra timber afterwards.
If you don't want to add extra timber then still foam underneath the back edge and use sand and cement on the front edge....if there isn't a drip under the cill,then it might be worth creating one as it will help to hold the sand/cement in place once it has gone off.
Taken loads of photos during my current job.will try to post them up soon...sorry not tonight as I did a14 hour day today .lol
If its half inch shorter than the old cill,then it would probably be best to add a small timber to the front edge of the new cill...something like 35x15 then you can use foam under the cill and add the extra timber afterwards.
If you don't want to add extra timber then still foam underneath the back edge and use sand and cement on the front edge....if there isn't a drip under the cill,then it might be worth creating one as it will help to hold the sand/cement in place once it has gone off.
Taken loads of photos during my current job.will try to post them up soon...sorry not tonight as I did a14 hour day today .lol
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A few photos before and after...will take a few more today of the cill when its been repaired.
A few photos before and after...will take a few more today of the cill when its been repaired.
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Updated a few photos,so you can see the before and after on a cill repair.
Updated a few photos,so you can see the before and after on a cill repair.
Wish i could get my puttied corners like that!
Since last time (although no photos to upload as yet) I've replaced 3 cills, time consuming when your muddling your way through it but look good. I ended up getting some 4mm pine strips from local DIY store, coated them in wood preserve, no-nailed them and pinned them to the underside of the cill. Put a wide dpc under cill to stop any moisture from rising up then sealed the front. Job looks a good-en. Only 3 more sash windows to go, maybe done for xmas.
Can you putty whilst windows are in situ or would you advise to take window out?
Got a shock my 2 x sash windows gained 4kg with the new glass, waiting on new weights so beware could have some questions on installing next?
Since last time (although no photos to upload as yet) I've replaced 3 cills, time consuming when your muddling your way through it but look good. I ended up getting some 4mm pine strips from local DIY store, coated them in wood preserve, no-nailed them and pinned them to the underside of the cill. Put a wide dpc under cill to stop any moisture from rising up then sealed the front. Job looks a good-en. Only 3 more sash windows to go, maybe done for xmas.
Can you putty whilst windows are in situ or would you advise to take window out?
Got a shock my 2 x sash windows gained 4kg with the new glass, waiting on new weights so beware could have some questions on installing next?
You can putty while in place,but much,much easier to do on a bench,flat.....
If your old glass was 3mm and you replaced with 4mm then you have gained 25% weight...
You don't have to buy new weights,you can buy lead make weights ,which will work out alot cheaper than buying whole new weights.
As I draught proof all my windows I can get away with a bit more weight wise as the friction on both sides of the sash counter act the gain in weight of new glass.
Remember the bottom sash needs to be slightly heavier than the weights,so it sits closed properly and the top sash needs to have slightly heavier weights so the sash stays closed up tight to the top.
If your old glass was 3mm and you replaced with 4mm then you have gained 25% weight...
You don't have to buy new weights,you can buy lead make weights ,which will work out alot cheaper than buying whole new weights.
As I draught proof all my windows I can get away with a bit more weight wise as the friction on both sides of the sash counter act the gain in weight of new glass.
Remember the bottom sash needs to be slightly heavier than the weights,so it sits closed properly and the top sash needs to have slightly heavier weights so the sash stays closed up tight to the top.
I went from 3mm glass to 6mm glass! Weighed the smaller of the sash window and both top and bottom came out @ 8kg each, not weighed the big ones yet.
So on that basis 8kg / 2 = 4kg weights. Hear what you say about the bottom sash so will adjust that to say 3-3.5? ok?
Original weights are cast and weigh 2kg (which would make sense as I've doubled the size of glass weight) and was told that adding an extra 2kg wouldn't work, little bits here and there are ok but doubling not ideal so suggested getting new one's!
Is that the case?
So on that basis 8kg / 2 = 4kg weights. Hear what you say about the bottom sash so will adjust that to say 3-3.5? ok?
Original weights are cast and weigh 2kg (which would make sense as I've doubled the size of glass weight) and was told that adding an extra 2kg wouldn't work, little bits here and there are ok but doubling not ideal so suggested getting new one's!
Is that the case?
As you have gone from 3 to 6mm glass,then I would buy new weights as its not really ideal to use make weights.
For your small window I would say 3.5kg would be fine...try scrap metal yard for weights as they will be loads cheaper...even if they don't have the correct size,you could always cut them if they are cast.
Most of the smaller windows I do have 8kg weights....so that's 16kg total and the sashes are usually about 17kg for the bottom sash.....so you need to aim for this roughly...new money,it's 1 pound a side difference(1/2kg)
Your sashes wont be glued,just wedged and doweled,so on the bigger sashes I would strengthen the joint on the bottom of the sash(pilot hole through tenon,counter sunk and screwed....sometimes you can pull the wedges out...if you can,do so then add glue and knock wedges back in.
When you get your camera fixed post some photos.
For your small window I would say 3.5kg would be fine...try scrap metal yard for weights as they will be loads cheaper...even if they don't have the correct size,you could always cut them if they are cast.
Most of the smaller windows I do have 8kg weights....so that's 16kg total and the sashes are usually about 17kg for the bottom sash.....so you need to aim for this roughly...new money,it's 1 pound a side difference(1/2kg)
Your sashes wont be glued,just wedged and doweled,so on the bigger sashes I would strengthen the joint on the bottom of the sash(pilot hole through tenon,counter sunk and screwed....sometimes you can pull the wedges out...if you can,do so then add glue and knock wedges back in.
When you get your camera fixed post some photos.
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