Dot and Dab in the bathroom

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Hi Guys
I have a plasterer coming Wednesday to skim the bathroom before i tile and fit everything in. A few of the walls are a bit off level so want to try ny hand at dot n dabbing the walls but have a few questions, if anyone can answer them.

1)The problem areas im concerned about is one small external corner in the room, im unsure how to to this external corner, do I butt the two together and tape the edges? and the plasterer uses one of those metal edges to get a perfect edge?

2) the ceiling is curved, do I cut the board as close to the ceiling curve as possible and the plasterer tape the join?

3) There is a window in palce with a plastic sill, again do i cut the board as close to this as possible and let the plasterer sort it out, and with the edges of the windows, do i cut very small lengths of board for the inside on the windows or let the plasterter just skim it and use metal edge beeding agian.

Think thats all for now, what is the thinest plasterboard available? as i dont want to lose much off the room. Also anyone recommend a good plaster adhesive?

Many Thanks guys for ur help
 
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1)The problem areas im concerned about is one small external corner in the room, im unsure how to to this external corner, do I butt the two together and tape the edges? and the plasterer uses one of those metal edges to get a perfect edge?

Just but the boards up, plumb and square. The bead will take up the join - but if the gap is too big, just put a scrim on it before it is beaded.




2) the ceiling is curved, do I cut the board as close to the ceiling curve as possible and the plasterer tape the join?

Not really sure if you are boarding the ceiling, assume not. Just cut the board up close to it as possible, and then he can cover any small gap with scrim before skimming

3) There is a window in palce with a plastic sill, again do i cut the board as close to this as possible and let the plasterer sort it out, and with the edges of the windows, do i cut very small lengths of board for the inside on the windows or let the plasterter just skim it and use metal edge beeding agian.

You can stick the reveals with board, but if it loses too much on the margin of the window frame, then the spread can skim the reveal after PVA, SBR or Bond it on it first. Bead the external angle square and in line with the window. The spread can work up to the cill.



Think thats all for now, what is the thinest plasterboard available? as i dont want to lose much off the room. Also anyone recommend a good plaster adhesive?


9.5mm , but 12.5 is better to use as it is more rigid- if you can bear to lose an extra 3mm all round the room ! Knauf, British Gypsum,LaFarge. any Drywall Adhesive or Bonding Compound will do you fine. Just check it is for sticking plasterboard. Keep the Ivory (pale ) side of the board out always, whether skimming or jointing.

Only thing is to make sure what you are sticking onto is sound and dust free, and that you are getting a good key onto it.

Also make ssure you have enough dabs and have dabs where skirting or fixtures and fittings go.
 
Hi Micilin
thanks for taking the time to asnwer my list of questions but now i have a few more lol

1) About the bead when i but the boards up, how is it attached to the plasterboards? is there a particualr one im after there are so many to choose from

2) the ceiling is being skimmed so i will cut the wall as close as possible :)

3)dont reall understand the answer, do you mean board all around to the window but leave the inner sides (unsure of the proper name i should use) of the window for the plasterer to skim?

Thanks
 
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No worries -

1) About the bead when i but the boards up, how is it attached to the plasterboards? is there a particualr one im after there are so many to choose from

Thin coat beads for plasterboard. The plasterer should fix them , with staples (my choice) , nails , plaster whatever he uses himself. If he has to square them up or do anything other than fix them tight to the board, he will probably stick them with something.





3)dont reall understand the answer, do you mean board all around to the window but leave the inner sides (unsure of the proper name i should use) of the window for the plasterer to skim?


The inner cheeks of the window wall are called 'reveals,' with the top one the 'head'.

It would be better to have them stuck with board, but if by doing so you lose too much of the margin of the window frame, the spread can just skim the reveals , having primed with PVA , Bondit etc.
 

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