Plasterboarding Window Reveals

[mk2phil]

I'm about to dot-n-dab my window reveals and will apply a skim coat of plaster afterwards. Should I butt the plasterboard edges directly up to the window frame, or should you leave a gap of around say 3mm to allow the skim coat to fill the gap afterwards?

And in general, when dot-n-dabbing walls that will get a skim coat of finishing plaster afterwards, should you directly butt the boards togetgher or leave a small gap for the plaster to get into and take hold to help cohesion? I'm using square-edge boards btw.

Thanks guys

 

[Richard C]

I'm about to dot-n-dab my window reveals and will apply a skim coat of plaster afterwards. Should I butt the plasterboard edges directly up to the window frame, or should you leave a gap of around say 3mm to allow the skim coat to fill the gap afterwards?

Fit the boards tight to the frame.

And in general, when dot-n-dabbing walls that will get a skim coat of finishing plaster afterwards, should you directly butt the boards togetgher or leave a small gap for the plaster to get into and take hold to help cohesion? I'm using square-edge boards btw.

Butt the boards closely together, no gap; make sure the edges are adequately supported by intermediate dabs around the edges, tape the joints before skimming.

 

[stevethespreader]

a number of sites i have been on are using edging bead between the window and the board it gives a nice clean line to skim to and needs no caulking if done properly, i have skimmed a fair few of these and they always come out nice, i recently float and set my own bathroom using the dot and dab method around the reveals so i thought i would use the edge bead on that as well, i think i will use the edge beads all the time now

 

[doogle2009]

stop bead on the inside of the window reveal??

 

[stevethespreader]

stop bead on the inside of the window reveal??

not a stop bead but an edging bead like this http://www.sabrefix.co.uk/products_plasterers_view.php?id=41 the last 3 sites i have been on this year had these between the window frame and the board it creates a nice line to skim to, you get a good result every time no wavey lines or anything just nice straight reveals, i suppose i should explain how to do it just incase you decide you want use this method the smallside of the bead goes on the backside of the board so what u have is the longest side of the bead on the front of the board this is then skimmed up to and over the bead after being skimmed u cannot see the bead all u can see are nice straight lines

 

[doogle2009]

i see, so you have to fit the bead wen you put the reveals in?

 

[stevethespreader]

i see, so you have to fit the bead wen you put the reveals in?

yes you just slot them over the end of the board

 

[doogle2009]

ok thanx very much al giv it a try

 

[stevethespreader]

ok thanx very much al giv it a try

np let me know how u get on

 

[dextrous]

I've often wondered what they were for

 

[NickB_99]

i see, so you have to fit the bead wen you put the reveals in?

I had to do some reveals and for the first I wanted to use Bonding to patch up the existing.
I found putting the skim over the top did lead to a bit of a wavy edge up the side of the window. It was good enough for me as a DIY, but I would imagine nowhere good enough for a pro.

So for the next one, I had a bigger job with much more to repair (whole reveal) so went for a 13 mm edge bead (like was shown). This gave a much straighter reveal after being built up from blockwork.

I noticed there are also thin coat edge beads (3mm)

http://www.british-gypsum.com/produ...tle_beads/thistle_thin_coat_plaster_stop.aspx

Not used them, but......
Maybe one of these would allow you to dryline and then fit the bead after and still maintain a neat edge for your skim against the window

 

[Richard C]

I noticed there are also thin coat edge beads (3mm)
Maybe one of these would allow you to dryline and then fit the bead after and still maintain a neat edge for your skim against the window

I often use thin coat stop beads on larger windows, do the same job but cheaper; also less likely to cause a cold spot.