Plasterborading a wall

[mk2phil]

Hi there,

I'm about to plasterboard (dot-n-dab) a large wall section. Should the boards butt tightly together or should a small gap be left between them? I've had mixed answeres on this before and would like to get a definitive answer from a professional plasterer.

Also, I'm dot-n-dabbing directly onto brickwork - would I be better off PVA'ing it first?

And what gap should I leave between the the floor (solid) and the plasterboard?

Thanks

 

[Richard C]

Should the boards butt tightly together or should a small gap be left between them?

Butt them close, fill & tape the joints before skimming & put extra dabs of adhesive all around the perimeter of the boards to give additional, continuous support.

Also, I'm dot-n-dabbing directly onto brickwork - would I be better off PVA'ing it first?

I wouldn’t; if they are excessively dusty, give them a good brush & damp them down slightly (kitchen spray bottle) but don’t overdo it or you’ll have problems getting the boards to stick.

And what gap should I leave between the the floor (solid) and the plasterboard?

12-15mm is all you need.

 

[mk2phil]

Thanks Richard.

I didn't think you'd have to fill the joins if they're tightly butted together and you're having the whole lot skimmed...?

Although I mistakenly bought taper-edge boards and will have to trim 3" from both sides to remove the taper. I expect that i wont be able to get these 100% straight and there are bound to be a few gaps when I try to join them on the wall. In this instance I was expecting to just use a small amount of dab adhesive to fill these gaps and bring them level with both sides of the plasterboard, then have the lot skimmed afterwards.

Is this what you mean?

Thanks again

 

[1john]

dont cut the taper off, just tape and fill it and then skim over.

 

[Richard C]

No don’t cut the tapers off; you’ll just make more work. Your plasterer will tape the joins & fill these out flush with an initial plaster skim & then skim out the whole wall as normal; it’s just a bit more work for him that’s all but may put the price up a bit.

In fact other than sticking the boards up, I wouldn’t advise you do anything by way of prep. work without talking to you plasterer first. It may sound like a good way to save on cost but you’re unlikely to save much & if something goes wrong, it could be due to something you’ve done or not done. I much prefer to do everything myself including dabbing the boards, it doesn’t take me much longer & then if it goes wrong, it can only be my fault!

 

[roughcaster]

I mistakenly bought taper-edge boards and will have to trim 3" from both sides to remove the taper.

Absolutely no need to trim off the tapers!!!!!!

I have plastered many a tapered plasterboard wall/ceiling. It just means you'll have to tape and fill out the tapered joint/s first,,, (i let mine set before skimming), and then skim/plaster the wall.

I've never heard of anyone cutting off the tapered edges of a plasterboard sheet, because they bought the wrong type. Your losing 6" off of each sheet width too... Silly.

Roughcaster.

 

[dizz]

Have a think about doing it all yourself!

Get some of this :

http://www.jastimber.co.uk/images/p...ter_25kg_british_gypsum_dri-wall_adhesive.jpg

Put it on the walls and put your boards up, as tight as they can go to the ceiling and against each other. Use a piece of wood and hammer to hit boards flush to walls (which spreads out adhesive and grabs the board). Ensure that you have a piece of wood at the bottom, which the board sits on, and lever the wood and raise the board (like a see-saw) with your foot to raise the board as you are hitting it with the hammer - to keep it tight to the ceiling. Place a weight on the other end of the see-saw to keep the board raised and under pressure while it dries.

Keep tapers vertical where possible.

Once dry, put some of this on all the joints :

http://www.mansontools.com/0/1-1.jpg

Then use this on the joints :

http://www.sigexpress.co.uk/documents/Gyproc Easi-Fill 45.jpg

With a long plasterers trowel, you run up/down the taper joints with the easi fill to make flush with the rest of the board (no need/and costly to get the whole board skimmed). You will need two-three coats, building up each time. Check progress with flat edge (e.g. piece of wood / spirit level)

When dry, use sandpaper to smooth joints (easi fill is very easy to sand - unlike finishing plaster).

The use some of this :

http://www.toolstation.com/images/library/stock/webbig/19327.jpg

On the joints with the ceiling.

Then, simply paint.

 

[Richard C]

I’m all for having a go & it was a great post until you got to here;

Then use this on the joints :
http://www.sigexpress.co.uk/documents/Gyproc Easi-Fill 45.jpg
With a long plasterers trowel, you run up/down the taper joints with the easi fill to make flush with the rest of the board (no need/and costly to get the whole board skimmed). You will need two-three coats, building up each time. Check progress with flat edge (e.g. piece of wood / spirit level)

easi fill is very easy to sand - unlike finishing plaster.

Finishing plaster was never designed for & is not supposed to be sanded!

It rather depends what sort of finish you want really; a smooth plaster finish that looks good, is very hardwearing & that you can decorate over & again. Or something that looks like it was put up after a Sunday morning trip to the local DIY shed, won’t stand any impact & will probably disintegrate the first time you try & strip wallpaper from it. I freely admit that I don’t like tape & fill, it's fine for partitioning large open plan office blocks but, IMO, it has no place in a domestic property; it shouts "cheap & nasty". Sure you will save the cost of a plasterer, that’s why it was invented & is used extensively by penny pinching, large estate developers in order to keep costs down & maximise profit but it will never look as good or last as long as a decent plaster finish.

Then, simply paint.

& if you just do that without applying a proprietary sealer then it will never survive a wall paper strip.

 

[dizz]

Hey richard

i was never telling him to wallpaper it - that's why i said paint it!
I was never telling him finishing plaster was meant to be sanded!

This is just an alternative to paying £350 a room for a plasterer - and well worth it - the finish is great.

 

[Richard C]

i was never telling him to wallpaper it - that's why i said paint it!

But at some point in the future some poor unsuspecting soul won’t know you haven’t primed the surface & may want wall paper. If you’re saving £350 on a plasterer & intent on decorating over bare boards at least have the foresight to spend an extra 15 quid & seal the surface properly, even large cheapskate developers will do that.

I was never telling him finishing plaster was meant to be sanded!

You’ll be surprised how many think it should be.

This is just an alternative to paying £350 a room for a plasterer - and well worth it - the finish is great.

It rather depends on you’re priorities really; do you want a finish that will look good & give the room a new lease of life equally as long as the original finish or, alternatively, a cheap & nasty make-over that will probably require re-boarding again in just a few years & will reduce the value/saleability of your property.

 

[russellellwood]

I am upgrading my property and have had loads of problems with taper edge board not being sealed. When stripping the wall paper off taking the joint filler out, and top paper layer of plasterboard off. So I would say the only way to go is skim the walls. As said before much better finish and will last much longer.