Drainage for downstairs bathroom

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Hi all

I have the BCO coming over on Monday to discuss the drainage for moving the bathroom downstairs. As I'm new to this, I just want to do some homework and gather some advice so I don't look like a total plonker.

The house is a standard Victorian end of terrace; current arrangement has a small bath and sink upstairs and a downstairs toilet. I want to move the bathroom downstairs and change location of kitchen sink. See diagram 'before' and 'after'.

Luckily (this being Victorian) the manhole covers are on my property so I can see what's going on.

I plan to run 110mm black plastic from the new toilet just above ground level and then take it down and connect it up to the old clay via a Y connector and a rubber coupling, the other end of the Y connector taking the rainwater hopper. 40mm waste will join the black 110mm along the way to take bath, basin and shower.

I also plan to dig down to find the clay that took the original toilet waste and bring this directly up so that I can take the 40mm waste to this for kitchen sink and dishwasher/washing machine.

I have what I consider to be fairly significant falls between the floor level inside and the start of the clay drainage outside (66cm) and the start of the clay drainage and the end of the clay under the manhole (160cm).

1) Does this seem an OK method and an allowable method for BCO?

2) Also, where I have marked rodding point, I have already dug down a meter but am yet to find the clay drain. Do I need to quit my whining and keep digging or am I missing something?

3) Should I keep the open hopper or am I better off taking the downpipe underground?

Cheers



 
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ree

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steven 239,

To help you with your project we would probably have to ask quite a few questions and request more pics.

It would involve a bit of work at your end, and you coming back here with prompt responses if tomorrow is some kind of deadline?

If all this sounds like a bit too much, then i will move on, but i'm sure that others would advise you.
 
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I think you might have a problem with your new proposed solution in that the new WC is now discharging into the branch channel of the manhole at 90 degrees, and you are relying on just your kitchen waste running along the main channel to wash all that WC waste away. I'm no expert but that seems less than ideal.

That aside, as another possible solution which you could discuss with your BCO, what about 'Y'ing in the new WC closer to the manhole and having the whole 110m run underground, and go direct into the existing gully from shower (straight through the wall), and sink and bath 40 mm to gully in a similar arrangement to what you've already suggested.

This would stop you having an ugly run of black soil pipe along the side of your house.
 
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Hi all, I should have specified but I meant Monday as in next week. So 7 days away.

Some useful points. I particularly like the idea of keeping the 110mm hidden and it will also mean less bends in the 110mm so more speed when it hits the 90 gully at the manhole.

In terms of the old clay sewer at the back of the house (that took the old toilet waste) do you think that my diagram is the likely route of the pipe or do you think that it may be coming at a diagonal (straight line) from old toilet to manhole?? I'm still digging by the 'ridding point' but yet to find it!
 
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ree

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Presumably, the soil pipes from you and your neighbour tee-in, or Y-in somewhere on the way to the front of the property down the passage between the houses?

You could tie-in to that run just behind the proposed new WC, and perhaps also tie-in the other fixtures in the bathroom.

The 4" CI RWP could be replaced with a black plastic RWP and the gulley eliminated.

The drainage from the wash room appliances could be buried in a new plastic drain pipe at an appropriate depth to punch into the side of the manhole.
The old, deeper clay pipe must be blocked off at both ends.

Your original (lead?) DPC has been bridged by the yard concrete - perhaps you have interior damp?

The S&C plinth should be removed or cut back, say 50mm above the ground level.

Only one 10 x 6 plastic air vent is visible you need more for suspended floors.

Check the joist tails in the brick pockets they are in vulnerable positions.
 

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