Hi,
I went to have a look at a friend's heating system that was playing up. The HW taps were only luke warm and radiators were getting very hot even though the room thermostat was set to the lowest setting.
Based on this, I am thinking it is an issue with the diverter valve. The plastic manual actuator on the MA1 seems to be broken and moves losely around, so this is something that definitely needs replacing, however I'm not sure about the body of the valve itself. I removed the head and tried operating the valve spindle myself using pliers. The spindle is turning by a very limited amount - somewhere around 20 degrees end-to-end I would guess. Is this the normal rotation that should be expected for this valve or is it blocked?
Also, would it be a like-for-like replacement to replace the valve with a Honeywell diverter without changing the Drayton programmer? I get the impression that the Honeywell are more durable.
Thanks.
I went to have a look at a friend's heating system that was playing up. The HW taps were only luke warm and radiators were getting very hot even though the room thermostat was set to the lowest setting.
Based on this, I am thinking it is an issue with the diverter valve. The plastic manual actuator on the MA1 seems to be broken and moves losely around, so this is something that definitely needs replacing, however I'm not sure about the body of the valve itself. I removed the head and tried operating the valve spindle myself using pliers. The spindle is turning by a very limited amount - somewhere around 20 degrees end-to-end I would guess. Is this the normal rotation that should be expected for this valve or is it blocked?
Also, would it be a like-for-like replacement to replace the valve with a Honeywell diverter without changing the Drayton programmer? I get the impression that the Honeywell are more durable.
Thanks.
