D
Ecomax 824E - Replace Primary HE - can I DIY?
- Thread starter DWINYARD
- Start date
Before you do that, drain the boiler and remove the pump head and see if its clogged with dirt! Thats costs nothing!
While its off power it and test the torque with the "finger test".
Remember the boiler only "thinks" there is an excessive temperature difference. You have not checked that there really is with a contact thermometer!
If you can, let the boiler become totally cold and measure the resistance of each HE sensor. They should be pretty close, eg 2% or less.
Even if they are, you could try swapping them in case they have differing curves. If I remember correctly, they are dry pocket but you do need thermal transfer paste.
If all that fails to indicate a problem then replace the rubber pipe. Whats above does not cost anything to do apart from a short time if you have the test equipment. As a very minimum I expect you have at least a finger!
Tony
While its off power it and test the torque with the "finger test".
Remember the boiler only "thinks" there is an excessive temperature difference. You have not checked that there really is with a contact thermometer!
If you can, let the boiler become totally cold and measure the resistance of each HE sensor. They should be pretty close, eg 2% or less.
Even if they are, you could try swapping them in case they have differing curves. If I remember correctly, they are dry pocket but you do need thermal transfer paste.
If all that fails to indicate a problem then replace the rubber pipe. Whats above does not cost anything to do apart from a short time if you have the test equipment. As a very minimum I expect you have at least a finger!
Tony
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Tony is right, diagnosis is a series of checks, the result of which allows you to form a logical conclusion... I was at Vaillant earlier this week on a training course for their ecotec stuff and following my comment to the trainer about the "Bit of heater hose from a Ford Cortina" he did inform us that the hose should be nice and squishy and that if it was not squishy, then the hose should be replaced. Apparently the magnetite in the water is attracted to the flexible material that the hose is made of and it can clog giving the symptoms that the OP has described.
The Vaillant course was very good and well worth the day off, and having had chance to play with a make of boiler that we don't see very often in my area has led me to conclude that they have many benefits over what I currently install. I did, however bore the pants of every other installer on the course with my constant stream of questions. Sorry guys, but why were you there?
The Vaillant course was very good and well worth the day off, and having had chance to play with a make of boiler that we don't see very often in my area has led me to conclude that they have many benefits over what I currently install. I did, however bore the pants of every other installer on the course with my constant stream of questions. Sorry guys, but why were you there?
Indeed, but if I drain it I have to fill it again with a special water, right? I can't just fill it from the tap I'm guessing as the impurities in tap water are unwelcome.
Hi,
I am experiencing the same problem myself as OP. I have Vaillant ecomax 824e and getting E12. Was this problem solved in the end? And if so, what was the actual fault? Was it to do with the black flexi rubber tube or the PHE?
Thanks!
I am experiencing the same problem myself as OP. I have Vaillant ecomax 824e and getting E12. Was this problem solved in the end? And if so, what was the actual fault? Was it to do with the black flexi rubber tube or the PHE?
Thanks!
Like many postings on forums, the original poster did not come back and tell us what was wrong and thank us for our help!
You can read all the suggestions and decide what you want to do.
I would say check pump, check sensors and then replace rubber tube in that order.
BUT a blocked plate HE will seem very similar symptoms to many owners!
Tony
You can read all the suggestions and decide what you want to do.
I would say check pump, check sensors and then replace rubber tube in that order.
BUT a blocked plate HE will seem very similar symptoms to many owners!
Tony
Hi Tony,
Thanks for the reply. I wouldn't be doing it myself (as I am a bit useless in this area unfortunately), and I am just trying to find out more of the theoretical side. So it could very well be either what you say, or a blocked HE. So would that require a power flush or would the primary HE need replacing? My CH doesn't get as hot as it should either, especially since I have been getting code E12 (and F23) just before Christmas.
Also, I have been doing searches on my problem (using search engine) and it is true that people rarely post back on the actual outcome of the problem that they had! Strange that is.
Cheers.
I am one of a very few who will chemically clean heat exchangers in situ.
Most engineers just want to replace them!
Foe a large firm like BG that buys them cheaply thats understandable as its the quickest way.
For an independent cleaning it in situ give the lowest cost and quickest solution to the problem.
Tony
Most engineers just want to replace them!
Foe a large firm like BG that buys them cheaply thats understandable as its the quickest way.
For an independent cleaning it in situ give the lowest cost and quickest solution to the problem.
Tony
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