Electrical Sockets in Kitchen

Joined
14 Apr 2006
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
Location
Bristol
Country
United Kingdom
Hi all.
Am wanting to extend ring in kitchen, but want to run the wire horizontal from socket to socket (above the worksurface). Can only get 20mm depth in the brickwork. Question is, is it ok to run horizontal wire in kitchens? and because of the depth in the wall, do I need to put galvanized capping over the run, or does it need to be more substantial, as was told to use steel conduit between boxes?
Any help much appreciated :confused:
 
Sponsored Links
That plan is in zones, and the regs say no additional protection neccessary (when running horzontally or vertially in line with fittings), you have to decide though whether that is sensible, some the zones in the regs are daft (like in a corner) capping doesn't give protection other than from a plasterers trowel and possible chemical effects from the plaster, oh and it also allows you to pull a bit of slack through should the need arise.

If running horzontally, steel conduit would be a nice touch, but not required from a regs POV

Oh, and as its a kitchen, this work is notifiable to your local building control office
 
In a kitchen, sockets run horizontally in a row above the worktop is a splendid way to do it. You can also include FCUs and switches for extractor hoods, freezers and dishwashers in the same row, and it will be very obvious where the cables are when you drill a hole in the wall.

Put in plenty; and more than you currently consider necessary.

Steel conduit or capping is nice, but if you later want to sink another switch between two existing sockets, it will be easier to cut and thread in plastic.

Preferably run them at least a tile's height above the worktop in case you later have a tiled splashback, or spill/splash something on the worktop.
 
Many Thanks for the info. Have informed Building control, now we know what we want out of it.
 
Sponsored Links
What's the thickness of the wall?

There's a limit to how deep you can make horizontal chases, but I cannae remember what it is...
 
Just gone under the plaster and about 10mm into blockwork. Think its a double skin wall by the thickness outside, but have no way of getting to the inner cavity, if there is one!. Hence when someone said we needed conduit, we thought that it would be too much to start digging deeper into the block as that takes all the strength out of it, and could bring the whole wall down inside. Thats why capping, i thought, would be the ideal, but thought it was worthwhile checking before even contemplating it.
 
Going off on a tangent here, while you have probably still got the wall open...

No doubt others will disagree, but even though its not required by the regs, I can see that earthing the capping might be a worthwhile excercise

then when someone puts a nail through it and into the phase conductor, it actually disconnects rather than leaving a live nail and live capping (which has been known to cause problems in shower areas where the plaster has managed to get a a bit damp...)

A bit of excess cpc picked up from the floor, crimp hoop ends on it, and pop rivot it to a hole drilled in the backbox and capping
 
Quite agree. Was thinking that when I saw the reply, but good suggestion as to how to fix it to the capping, as couldnt think of how to do it, that would be a good enough bond. Many Thanks.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top