En suite Wiring in Loft...pics

[sparkwright]

Sounds good.

Yes a 3 core and earth cable would be better for the fan.
Take the opportunity to fit a 3 pole fan switch somewhere safe, if there isn't one.

Don't forget to send photos of the finished product.

 

[Paul-man]

Sounds good.

Yes a 3 core and earth cable would be better for the fan.
Take the opportunity to fit a 3 pole fan switch somewhere safe, if there isn't one.

Don't forget to send photos of the finished product.

Ok - long time has passed but I've finally started on this work yesterday.

I'll post some pics when it is all done so you can all have a laugh at my work (hopefully not though!)

Anyway- I have 3 questions:

1) The stud wall into which I want to mount the 3 pole switch seems to have some kind of paper insulation between the studs. (when I take existing fittings out, I can see what appears to be corrugated paper) I'm worried I wont be able to push the cable through this. Any ideas what it is?

2) Is it acceptable to mount the Triple-pole switch in the loft?

3) The extractor fan doesn't have a terminal to terminate the earth wire from my 3C+1. I'd usually put some sleaving and a bit of choc block on the end, but space in the terminal box is very tight. Should I just cut it off level with the cable butt at that end? Should I still terminate it at the JB end?

Thanks guys,

Paul

 

[Monkeh]

If you have to cut it off, leave a few inches of slack on the cable so in future it can be pulled through and restripped to provide an earth. But try and terminate it with something. Always connect it on the supply end.

 

[Paul-man]

Ok, Job finished! (bar fixing a few bits of timber to support a couple of the cables.

I'll let you loose on these!

If you remember the beginning of the thread, I had 9 or 10 cables all coming into a few choc blocks and left exposed: View media item 25054 View media item 25053
Aim was to enclose it all. Initially I just bought a 6 terminal Junction Block- but it was soon apparent it wasn't going to fit. To reduce the number of cables going in, I worked out what was what. I had a spur off to a shower pump and another unknown cable which I decided would be best left connected.

I identified the feed cable and fitted 3 additional 5A junction boxes in appropriate locations for their purpose. (You can only see 2 in this, the third is on the angled part of the truss. I plan to fit some struts to support the cables which drop down a short length to the joists.

View media item 27227
1)
View media item 27228View media item 27229

This one allowed me to fit some lighting in the loft. I've provided 2 x 4ft Thorn Pop Packs up there for now. I realise taking loft lighting off the upstairs lighting isn't the BEST idea, but I also have a lead light up there- hopefully I won't need to tend to this wiring in a hurry!
View media item 27237 View media item 27238
2) View media item 27230 View media item 27231
This is where the cable for the shower pump now joins the circuit.

3) View media item 27232 View media item 27233This is for the "unknown" cable. I decided it was best left connected in case it was related to the alarm.

I now had a feed, a tail end for the landing light, a supply cable for the transformer for the 12V downlights in the en suite, 2 switch cables for fan and light and 1 and a half cables off to the fan! (The previous engineer had used 2 lengths of twin and earth (utilising only the red as the permanant live) instead of using 3 core and earth. He also hadn't fitted a 3-pole switch, so I dealt with that by running it all in properly in 3 core and earth.

View media item 27223 View media item 27224 View media item 27225
So, just to wire up the final junction box!

View media item 27234 View media item 27235
Oh and put a sticker on the CU!
View media item 27236
A

 

[sparkwright]

Although many of us here could easily go on about things that WE wouldn't have done, you have done a reasonably good job. Assuming you are a DIYer I think you should be very proud of yourself.

There is no doubt you have improved things.

Personally, I would have used black as SW L, and grey as N on the fan 3 core+e wiring. But it doesn't really matter; and you have sleeved them anyway.

Would have left longer cores within the fan switch. However, you have left some slack cable in the wall void; so nothing to worry about.

Not sure I like the cable 'hanging' between the fluorescent lights. Would have gone the longer way round, and securely cable clipped.

Nevertheless, as a non-professional you have done well. Better than some DIY installations I have seen, where I have had to re-make every connection.

Well done.

 

[sparkwright]

Is that black that goes with grey in the 6 terminal jb securely terminated?

 

[Paul-man]

Is that black that goes with grey in the 6 terminal jb securely terminated?

I only noticed that in the photo- it's pretty cramped up there! I'll double check, thanks.

 

[Paul-man]

Although many of us here could easily go on about things that WE wouldn't have done, you have done a reasonably good job. Assuming you are a DIYer I think you should be very proud of yourself.

Yes, I am a DIYer.

There is no doubt you have improved things.

Cheers, but that didn't take much did it!? the supply cable to the transformer wasn't even clamped (sorted!) and there was a screw missing from the cover (found by chance amongst the insulation!)

Personally, I would have used black as SW L, and grey as N on the fan 3 core+e wiring. But it doesn't really matter; and you have sleeved them anyway.

Good point, I looked it up at the time, but managed to convince myself that black was to be sleeved blue! As you say, sleeved at every point.

Would have left longer cores within the fan switch. However, you have left some slack cable in the wall void; so nothing to worry about.

Not sure I like the cable 'hanging' between the fluorescent lights. Would have gone the longer way round, and securely cable clipped.

It doesn't look great in retrospect. Would you have taken the cable down the truss, across the lower "strap" and back up? I was trying to keep that free for an aerial cable. I suppose I could go up to the apex?

Was flex the right choice for running these lights? I had trouble terminating the flex in the choc block inside the luminare - had to use my own choc in there and a small solid jumper to the light. I was also uncomfortable with the sharp edges on the cable entry on the rear. I would have used the plastic knockouts on the end, but couldn't work out how I could support their entry.

Nevertheless, as a non-professional you have done well. Better than some DIY installations I have seen, where I have had to re-make every connection.

Well done.

Thanks On to the next project...

 

[sparkwright]

Assuming the entry points are 20 or 25 mm holes drilled through metal, you fit rubber grommets.

Ordinary flat t+e would give a far more satisfactory connection to those push-in connectors.

With t+e it needs to clipped to the surface securely. It doesn't take to excessive movement like flex does.

You could screw a wooden batten to those rafters, and clip your cable to that.